I could start out by citing that 60% of people have fine hair and fine hair is a special fabric that needs to be treated differently than other hair types, but we all know that. They key to being successful with this hair type is in understanding its capabilities. I’m kind of obsessed with fine hair, with such a high percentage of the population having this hair type; there are literally thousands of women constantly searching for stylists that can deliver the volume they so desperately seek. I’m so thankful for fine hair, because it makes us continually search for new and better ways to handle it, making us better hairdressers.
I even devoted an entire DVD to fine hair - CutOuts, Your Inspiration for Cutting Fine Hair. Over the years, we’ve discovered that by simply detaching the crown area, we can create a sense of frothiness. Disconnection and detaching areas allows more interior movement, less weight, a sense of frothy volume, and most importantly, a sense of texture that is easy to re-cut. Think about it, if we blend fine hair, we make it finer; we then cut the length to put the weight back into the perimeter. Does that really make sense? Disconnection is the answer.
So, say you’ve given your client that perfect disconnected cut, what the heck are they going to do with it if you don’t tell them? Truth: Any styling technique done with a round brush on fine to medium hair can be done faster and better with a thermal brush. They conduct more heat and distribute it evenly, making it easier to break down hair bonds and reform them. The faster this is done, the less stress on the hair, which is vital for retaining the integrity of fine hair. Most are just made with nylon bristles, which make it difficult to get the pull you need to create volume. I created the Sam Villa Signature Series Thermal Brushes with 30% boar’s hair and 70% nylon bristles. The reason I added the boar’s hair was to make it easier to grab hair and help distribute natural oils to increase shine. The brushes are also shaped differently, the center of the barrel is slightly wider for maximizing volume, and they have a curved seam to prevent hair from getting caught in the handle.
Dare: Share this with your next fine haired client. Tell them to work from the top to the bottom - if they start from the bottom, the set will get in their way and frustrate them.
-Dry hair until 80% of the moisture is out, apply Redken guts 10 volume spray foam and finish drying – the style will have incredible volume and hold. When hair is less wet, it’s easier to feel where to put the product, and product adherers to the hair shaft better because it’s not diluted by moisture.
-Starting where you want the most volume, usually the crown, take a section the size of the brush, roll up in the brush and heat with a blow dryer until set – just like a hot roller.
-Unroll carefully and roll back up and clip to cool and lock in the curl - like a dry setting. Repeat until entire head is finished.
-Spray entire head with Redken control addict 28 high control hairspray.
-Take clips out and use brush/hands to diffuse the curl.
Here’s another tip to share with your clients – they will be so thankful for YOU!
When blow drying the nape area, most people place hair on top of the brush and pull out and down, instead, advise clients to place hair on the bottom of the brush and pull straight down to collapse the volume at the nape making the crown look rounder and fuller. It’s the old opposites attract trick – proper proportion can make volume look more dramatic. Also tell them that the heat has to be on the brush to heat it up! When facing a mirror, everything appears backwards, so it can be tough. Have them direct the airflow to their wrist and once the heat is felt, follow down the hand to the brush.
I’m feeling grateful for so many things this month, including being part of this amazing industry filled with so many incredibly inspiring people. What are you thankful for? Share on facebook.com/samvillapros.-Sam Villa, Founding Partner of the Sam Villa® brand and Education Artistic
[Image courtesy of Sam Villa]