From pastels to patterns, washes and blends, hair color is front and center this season and it’s never been as interesting and unexpected as it is right now. George Garcia, International Performing Artist and Exchange Facilitator for Redken 5th Avenue NYC, and owner of The Loft Salon says, “Colors that start off intense and wash out are IN - big bold reds that fade to pretty pink pastels, oranges that wash to soft apricot, and for the more conservative, soft transitional colors like caramel browns and buttery blondes.”
To create pastels and washes, hair is usually lifted first, and lifted hair can be delicate. Sam Villa, Founding Partner of the Sam Villa® brand and Education Artistic Director for Redken 5th Avenue has these tips to reduce stress on lifted hair to keep washes, blends and pastel color looking fresh.
·A razor can compromise the integrity of fine high-lifted hair, use a blending shear instead.
·Always use a color maintenance line specifically formulated to retain color. Redken Color Extend is formulated with a micro-net for color retention, UVA and UVB filters for anti-fade protection, cranberry oil to maximize color vibrancy and Ceramides to strengthen and seal.
·Use tools that are safe for color treated hair. Sam Villa Signature Series Sleekr flat iron and Textur texturizing iron protect with Targeted Temperature Technology for color treated hair. Temperatures are represented by LEDS - LOW (Green) 375°F for fine hair, COLOR TREATED (Amber) 392°F and HIGH (Red) 410°F for resistant and virgin hair types. If freshly colored hair is styled on hot heat, the next shampoo will wash color right down the drain.
·Pass is the movement of a thermal tool through a section. The slower the pass, the more heat applied, the faster the pass, the less heat applied. Once is enough, don’t quickly go over the same section over and over again, it compromises color, use a slow pass with concentrated heat will. The more hair needs to be reshaped or manipulated, the more tension is needed, regardless of whether or not it is being straightened or texturized.
·Fine fragile hair needs less compression and a quicker pass while curly hair needs more compression with a slower pass. It all comes down to the amount of pressure you put on the handle. The further away your hands are from the plate, the less compression and the closer to the plate, the more compression.
·Always apply a thermal protection product before using thermal tools. Redken iron shape 11 finishing thermal spray protects hair from heat up to 450 degrees, adds shine, reduces frizz and does not build up on tools - it’s perfect for flat, texturizing and curling irons.
Sam Villa – Hair
Geneva Cowen - Art Direction/Color
Hair Assistants: George Garcia, Andrew Carruthers, Tina Calzaretta and Mary Urban
Shalem Mathew – Photographer, Mitch Kitter/Assistant
Paula J. Dahlberg – Makeup
Pascal Sauvageau and Jeremie Cote – Fashion Stylists