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Transformation Alert! Check Out Defined Spirals

Cosmo Prof™ artist Daisy “Daze” Henson shares a curly how-to.

Daze

Cosmo Prof™ is always on the pulse of the next big trend. Their Artistic Team of skilled professionals are here to educate and provide stylists with the expertise to perfect the most sought-after looks. Artistic Team ambassador Daisy “Daze” Henson partnered with Cosmo Prof™ to share her tried-and-true techniques to achieve the biggest look for fall: gorgeous, defined curls your clients will fall in love with.

“Clients are embracing their curls now more than ever,” enthuses texture expert and Cosmo Prof brand ambassador Daisy “Daze” Henson. Between a societal shift of people embracing their authentic selves not only inward, but outward, along with a return to “easier and breezier” post-quarantine looks, natural texture is reigning supreme. But before you shape your client’s curly mane, be sure to educate yourself on how to best work with spirals. (Cosmo Prof’s Facebook page offers a wealth of texture-hair education, for one!)

Curls come in all shapes and sizes, and typically, there are several curl patterns on one head,” explains Henson. “As a result, a cookie-cutter haircut isn’t sufficient. Curly clients are seeking a look that is personalized and takes into consideration their texture, face shape and lifestyle. They’re also looking for tips to work with their specific texture and help with how to maintain their curls at home.” For best results, Henson advises cutting hair dry and really focusing on your shear and sectioning work, as demonstrated in this accompanying how-to by Henson.

How Clients Should Prep for Their Appointment

Clients should arrive to their appointment with their hair detangled, clean and pre-styled the way they naturally wear their curls. They shouldn’t arrive in any style that alters their natural curl pattern—you want to see how the curls naturally fall.

Step 1: If a client is cutting a lot of hair off at once, cut the silhouette and create a basic guide around the perimeter before sectioning.

Step 2: Divide hair into five sections. Start sectioning from top to bottom, and then work in reverse by releasing sections one at a time, cutting from bottom to top. Reminder: While sectioning, leave out approximately one inch around the perimeter of the entire head. After all sections are parted out, create your length guide by cutting the hair along this perimeter.

  • Section 1- Part out the top of the head. Create a horseshoe-shaped parting from the two front corners to the crown. This area is where you can give the cut personality later in the process.
  • Sections 2 and 3- Part out a triangle section on each side from the front to the back corner. These areas connect sections 4 and 5 to the face frame.
  • Section 4- Part out the back of the head, parting horizontally across the occipital.
  • Section 5- Part out the base of the head (nape).

Step 3: Making the decision of whether to elevate a section of curls or not will depend largely on the curl pattern, texture and density. Some curls may naturally lift based on those criteria. Elevation/Graduation: Below the parietal ridge, elevate 45 degrees. At and above the parietal ridge, elevate 90 degrees. Create a guide by cutting the perimeter (the one inch that was left out). Start at the nape and move one side to the other, including the face frame. Create the guide at natural fall with zero tension. Part a horizontal subsection starting at Section 5. Using the guide from the perimeter, lift hair to 45 degrees and cut to guide. Use the traveling guide work through sections 5, 4, 3 and 2. Release Section 1 and create a center guide at the apex and elevate to 90 degrees. Using the center guide: Part out pivoting sections from the center and connect the top with the back, sides and fringe.

Step 4: As you move through each section, use your fingers to lightly rake and detangle through the strands to ensure all curls are cut to the guide and desired shape. Lift and drop each section to expand the curls from the interior to check the shape. Individually cut any curls that were missed. Lightly twist and slide fingers through the ends to expose and remove stragglers.

Some of my favorite curl-helpers include:

Malibu C Un-Doo-Goo Shampoo 

Maria Nila True Soft Masque 

Olaplex Take-Home Product Line

Olaplex Salon Kit 

Stylists can find all the products they need to give clients their best curls ever at Cosmo Prof. There are several ways stylists can shop safely, whether it be in-store, online at cosmoprofbeauty.com, through curbside pick-up, store consultants, or even same-day delivery at select locations.

Visit Cosmo Prof™ to hone your skills, get inspired and learn from the very best stylists in the industry in one of the many upcoming virtual classes with topics that range from cuts to color. Happy shopping—and learning! 

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