Having trouble with retention and dry time? You may want to look at the way you apply your adhesive. “One of the most common causes of slow dry time and poor retention is applying too much adhesive,” says Amanda Jacobellis, CEO of Makeup Mandy Los Angeles and creator of LAshX. She notes that Cyanoacrylate should be applied in an extremely thin layer, which may seem counterintuitive when visualizing a strong bond. “Stylists sometimes think more glue means more hold, but it’s actually the opposite. The less product used, the better the bond will be,” she says. It’s in the aforementioned instances that lash artists may turn to a tool to shock-cure the adhesive to speed up the process. “If you’ve applied too much adhesive and use a nanomister or nebulizer, the result could be thick, hard glue chunks. The shock-curing can cause the lash to become hard and brittle,” Jacobellis says. On the other hand, if you keep your application thin, the adhesive will “instantly ‘helmet’ or seal, and should create a flexible bond—meaning it should be able to move with the lash and not cause any damage,” she says.
But how do you know how thin to go? Here, Jacobellis shares her top tips for nailing adhesive application.
1 Choose Wisely: Select a quality adhesive that doesn’t contain fumes nor too thick of a consistency. “If you use a poor performing adhesive, it won’t matter how hard you try, you’ll never be able to achieve a nice, thin application,” Jacobellis warns.
2 Eyeball It: When applying adhesive, you shouldn’t really see the adhesive on the lashes at all. “The LAshX Speed Adhesive will dry clear, but different adhesives vary. You should never see adhesive thickness on the lash,” she says.
3 Get a Magnetic Bond: When you use the right amount of adhesive, your initial bond makes the extensions feel like they instantly attract like a magnet to the natural lash. “If you’re experiencing loads of slip or your Volume fan is collapsing, these are indicators that you need to use less adhesive,” she says.
4 A Drop Will Do Ya: One drop of adhesive should be more than enough product to complete a full set. “If you find yourself adding more and more glue to your pallet, you’re using too much,” Jacobellis shares.