Society has boxed in female musicians for decades; whether rock or pop, aesthetically speaking, women were expected to look a certain way—mostly through the lens of male music executives. And yet, certain musicians, like PJ Harvey and Julee Cruise, turned this idea on its head, eschewing traditional ideals of beauty and gaining power through their rebellion. These muses ran their way through the beauty seen at Creatures of the Wind’s Spring 2017 show in many different ways—some literal, some not. (Cruise, by the way, performed during the show.)
Most literal came through the makeup, which NARS Makeup Lead Mark Carrasquillo says takes a page from PJ Harvey. “This is a really real indie girl—an early ’90s girl. She likes how she looks,” he says. Many of the girls boast what Carrasquillo calls “honest makeup—she just got out of the shower, didn’t put a ton of makeup on her raw skin,” he says. And he’s not lying: the NARSskin line is getting a workout, with Multi-Action Hydrating Toner and Luminous Moisture Cream illuminating skin and only Stick Concealer and Radiant Creamy Concealer taking down any imperfections or redness. Glossy eyelids reflect beautifully, but it’s the lip that really shines: On a handful of girls, bold matte-red lips dominate. “I’m using NARS Dragon Girl Velvet Matte Lip Pencil, but I’m powdering it down with Exhibit A Blush, which is fuchsia,” he says. “Every girl I know wears Dragon Girl, so I wanted to make it new!”
Hair takes on three guises—because no nonconformist indie rocker would want to be part of a one-look army. Bumble & bumble Lead Stylist Holli Smith looks more to the clothing, an odd mix of 1800s prints and sport-tech fabrics, as muse for one of the hair looks. “I wanted to bring the sporty element into the hair,” she says, pointing to a wind-swept updo contained by a black headband. “From the front, you see all of the bits I pulled out sticking up; it looks blown up,” Smith says. A mix of Bumble & bumble Thickening Hairspray and Surf Spray lends the tack needed while Strong Finish, a not-yet-released “super-insane lacquer for editorial use only—trust me,” she laughs, ensures those blown-up bits stay put. The other two hair looks are loose and natural; “we’re not brushing the hair, because that gives it a boyish feel. It looks really raw,” Smith says, noting that absolutely no products play a part in these two styles.
For nails, the directive handed down to Morgan Taylor Lead Nail Artist Danielle Candido doesn’t explicitly reference indie rockers, but rather innocent beauty. “I think of white when I think of innocence,” Candido says. “Its classic and elegant—white polish makes a statement without being an announcement.” To that end, two flawless coats of Morgan Taylor All White Now adorn the models’ tips. And though an indie girl may not go for such perfection—after all, chipped polish was a ’90s right of passage for the indie set—pure white remains a rebellious choice for nails even today—something PJ Harvey can appreciate, we’re sure.
[Images courtesy of NARS, Karie L. Frost]