Runway Report: Dark Goths at Ohne Titel

Beauty takes a walk on the dark side at Ohne Titel, projecting a rock-n-roll, grungy, gothic vibe. “The collection has a Victorian [feel] so we wanted to offset that, which we did [by incorporating] the bang,” says Bumble and Bumble Lead Stylist Jordan M. “It’s a little Joan Jett and Patti Smith.” While some models rock au natural bangs, those without are fitted with faux clip-in bangs that Jordan leaves a little on the longer and thinner side. “I like the idea of a girl that needs to get her bangs trimmed. It feels cool to me,” he says. “And thick bangs can look fake. When they’re a little thinner you can see the forehead underneath, and to me that feels more believable.” For the remainder of the models’ tresses, he applies Bumble and Bumble Prep and Bumble and Bumble Styling Crème, gives the hair a rough blow-dry, and then finishes with Bumble and Bumble Cityswept Finish on natural hair or Bumble and Bumble Hair Powder on faux bangs, which works to blend the fake hair into the roots. “It should look effortless,” he says.

MAC Lead Nail Artist Keri Blair crafts six different nail styles for the show, ranging from deep solid shades that match swatches in the collection (think: burgundy-wine MAC Lacquer in 5-Pin, purple MAC Lacquer in Black Stallion and hunter green MAC Lacquer in Bespoke) to whimsical polka dots. “There are some polka dot patterns from head to toe so we’re keeping some nails in a monochromatic textile expression. So the nails are literally the accessory to the rest of the outfit,” she says. For these designs, Blair paints tips with either MAC Nocturnelle or MAC Midnight Ocean and then uses a dotting tool and white polish to create the dots. Blair shares this tip for getting the dotty look: “Do the big dots first and get your space mapped out. Then you can go in and fill in the smaller dots.”

MAC Lead Makeup Artist Kabuki also varies the makeup design, creating three separate looks. “We didn't want it to feel uniform like [is typical for] a fashion show,” he says. “It's about believability. They’re all in the same world and they would hang out with each other, but they're not carbon copies of one another.” For the first look, Kabuki focuses on the eye, applying MAC Fluid Line Eye Pencil in Black Brilliance on the lower waterline only. Mysterious and midnight lips star in the other two designs as Kabuki mixes MAC Lipmix in Burgundy and Magenta for one look and MAC Lipmix in Burgundy, Fuchsia and Crimson for the other. “The lips must be perfectly symmetrical because your eyes will go straight there due to them being [painted in] such dark colors,” says Kabuki. “So we’re cheating a little above the lip line [with MAC Lip Pencil in Burgundy] in a very believable way to just balance it out.”

[Images: Luca Cannonieri for MAC; Molly Church]

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