Is it true that redheads turn heads? William Whatley, celebrity hairstylist and creative education director at Scruples Haircare, certainly thinks so. According to Whatley "red always turn heads." So, what are the trending red shades for Fall 2024, how do you achieve them behind the chair and how do you educate the client on home care to maintain their vibrant red color? We went straight to Whatley to find out.
Beauty Launchpad (BLP): What do you love about creating red hair looks?
William Whatley (WW): The thing I love the most about creating red hair looks is the amazing change that you can create with going from either blondes or brunette to a red. Red always brings out a totally different kind of personality to the individual and the before and after results are so dramatic and red always turn heads.
BLP: What reds do you see trending in Fall/Winter 2024?
WW: I have two reds that I feel are trending for Fall and Winter 2024. I call them Sunset Radiant Red and Sunset Copper. Sunset Radiant Red is a beautiful red that brings in a style of a softer brunette red, but still with the vibrancy and the shine of a red. I call it Sunset Radiant Red because it has that beautiful sunset red glow that you see on those beautiful evening sunsets. Sunset Copper still leans into the red category I feel. Both categories of reds and coppers still have that fall/winter natural hue that has a lot more depth than the vibrant summer bright reds and coppers.
BLP: Do you have a lot of clients coming in asking for reds?
WW: I have several people coming in asking for reds. Reds are a circular situation when it comes to hairdressing. Reds are in and then reds are out. Right now, reds are in, and a ton of my clients are coming in and asking for red — maybe not an orange red, but maybe more of a violet red with a little bit of mahogany because we’re going into fall. But no doubt, reds are trending, and probably 50% of my clients that are blondes are requesting to go to either a red or a copper.
BLP: What are your top tips for application of red color for best results?
WW: Best results tips for achieving the ultimate, beautiful red or copper for me is if you’re trying to achieve a medium-to-medium-light sunset radiant red, I love to go from a level 5 or 6 to a level 7 or 8 with the intensity of the Radiant Red using Scruples True Integrity Color. Our technology of lifting and depositing has such an immense amount of red pigment to the hair that it lasts from appointment to appointment with all the vibrancy just like you left the salon.
My favorite tip for coppers is it’s always an amazing transformation to go from a lighter level 9 or 10 blonde down to a 6, 7 or 8 copper as a deposit color, especially with our Color Art Fresh non-ammonia non-PPD hair color. This product gives triple deposit pre-filling not needed one step results with even porosity and lasts between appointments.
BLP: How do you counsel clients to take care of their red hair at home?
WW: Home care is so important. It’s at least 50% of the care of red hair. My number one rule is please do not shower with warm to hot water on red hair. This will open the cuticle and allow the hair to fade quicker. Always use a tepid to a cool rinse to keep that cuticle closed and keep that red in the hair a lot longer. I love using our Scruples Renewal Color Retention Shampoo and Conditioner. Both help close that cuticle after you jump out of the shower before you apply any styling products. It is important to always keep your cuticle as closed as possible, and, of course, use professional products as our Renewal Color Retention Shampoo and Conditioner designed for color treated hair.
How-To: Sunset Radiant Red
Step 1. Starting from a level six lifting to a level eight for Sunset Radiant Red, I use a melting technique. I will take and mix equal parts seven RR True Integrity cream color, which is a radiant red level seven, with 20 vol. developer. Apply from the root to mid strand.
Step 2. Formulate a second formula with our level eight radiant red, and melt with 30 vol. from mid strand to ends.
Step 3. Allow a process for 30 to 40 minutes to make sure that you get complete lift and deposit and even tonality.
Step 4. Lightly shampoo with Scruples Renewal Color Retention Shampoo and Conditioner for maximum results.
How-To: Sunset Copper
Step 1. My favorite formula and technique for Sunset Copper is to take a level 9 or 10 and do a deposit color using our Scruples Color Art Fresh demi permanent color, which is ammonia free and PPD free.
Step 2. After clarifying and towel drying the hair, I will take our level nine copper, which is pumpkin in the swatch book, and mix one and a half 10 volume developer to half of level 9 copper. Apply from root to almost the ends.
Step 3. Let it process for 30 minutes, then pull through all the way to the ends and leave for another 10 minutes, if the hair is very porous. I will also add a cap over the entire head just to make sure that I get some heat from the scalp and body to help my copper pigment penetrate into the hair strand.
Step 4. After this processing time, allow it to cool 10 minutes, then proceed again with the Scruples Renewal Shampoo and Conditioner for color-treated hair. Finish with styling products.