Your clients continue to clamor for the beyond-lush look of Volume lashes, but what if you’re running up against problems when creating the necessary Volume fans? Here, Illumino Lashes CEO and founder Soo-Jin Yang pinpoints four Volume fan issues and eight ways to fix them.
Problem 1: Rather than looking like a “V,” the bases are crisscrossed at the fan’s bottom base after picking up the fan off of the strip. This is likely due to how you use your tweezers, according to Yang.
Solution 1: “Instead of pulling the tweezers to the side, try to pull the tweezers directly up, using a firmer grip and lifting up the entire hand with the fan,” she says.
Solution 2: “Hold the tweezers’ grip evenly and securely while peeling the lashes off of the strip,” she says.
Problem 2: Your tweezers don’t grip well enough to pick up the fans. “This issue can make it so that a 5D fan becomes a 3D fan,” Yang laments.
Solution 1: “Become one with your volume tweezers,” she says. “Find out where your tweezers’ ‘pinch area’ is the best.” You can do this by gripping the lashes with your tweezers and giving the fan a little wiggle so the lashes don’t move from the grasp of the tweezers, Yang notes.
Solution 2: “Spot-check your Volume tweezers before starting each service to ensure there’s no residual glue dried up inside the tips,” she says.
Problem 3: The fan closes directly after placing it onto the natural lash. How far you dip the shaft of the lash extension’s fan base into the adhesive can have this effect, according to Yang, as can how quickly you release your tweezers.
Solution 1: Rather than dipping your fan base into the adhesive too far, Yang suggests scooping up a tiny amount of glue—“1⁄2 mm of glue at the very bottom of the base is best,” she says.
Solution 2: “This is probably the most frustrating part of creating Volume lashes: Letting go too fast and seeing your lash fan shift and close up,” says Yang. Her solution: “Hold the fan a few seconds longer after attaching the fan onto the natural lash; this will help it stay open,” she says.
Problem 4: Your fans aren’t symmetrical.
Solution 1: Slow down. “Be patient. Going fast isn’t always going to give you consistent, high-quality lash fans,” says Yang, adding, “Creating a lash fan is a work of art!”
Solution 2: “When one side of your fan closes, it’s never to late to fix it,” she assures. But you need to act fast. “If your glue isn’t set, try to use the tips or the back of your tweezers to fluff the lash extensions apart and spread the lashes evenly in-between each lash.”