The dust of the Chinese Year of the Snake has settled, and the Chinese Year of the Horse is upon us, symbolizing self-confidence, energy, activity and strength. At Meskita, this new year in the zodiac calendar and what it represents serves as inspiration for models’ sleeked-back, high-topped, dip-died and super-long ponytails. To create the sporty design, prior to the show Nioxin lead hairstylists Anthony Crosfield and Danielle Caputo pre-colored 26- to 30-inch-long extensions with this interesting technique: they set the extensions in a ponytail and applied thin strips of Wella Koleston Perfect formulas mixed with Wella Koleston Perfect 20 Volume Developer in a full vertical down position. The result: both subtle and drastic color (think: blonde to brunette or white blonde to blue-black). Once backstage, the models’ locks were dampened, and Nioxin DiaMax is worked in from the root to the tip of the hair. Next, the stylists apply Nioxin Thickening Gel to sectioned-out parts of the models’ tresses before placing them in a slicked-back ponytail, adding the extensions and securing with a black band. “Since the look is based on an equestrian feel we’re using an almost sport-like tape to hold the ponytails—to give them that athletic look. We wanted something contemporary and relevant, not Madonna circa ’92,” laughs Crosfield.
Once the extensions are secure, Nioxin Therm Active Protector is sprayed, the ponytail is flat-ironed and Nioxin NioSpray is spritzed for hold. “There’s a flow in the hair so when the models walk it will have a nice swing to it without it bunching or sticking to their clothes,” says Crosfield. “There’s an ease about this style that can go from looking extremely elegant to being a bit more casual — and I think that’s going to play out really nicely on the runway!”
The makeup design is anything but horse-like and instead stems from another part of the collection — a throwback to the ’50s, mixed in with a little Barbie. “We wanted to go with something flawless, beautiful. Since the clothing has a lot of shape and the hair is in a high ponytail, we didn’t want to do a lot with the makeup,” shares Bobbi Brown lead makeup artist Rogelio Reyna. With a defined, graphic, angular cat eye and glowing skin, he does just that. He primped the face with Bobbi Brown Hydrating Face Cream, Bobbi Brown Skin Foundation, Bobbi Brown Brightening Finishing Powder and Bobbi Brown Extra Soothing Balm to give it luminosity. He also applied Bobbi Brown Shimmer Brick to the cheekbones (and legs and arms!) for a high shine. “Barbie’s look is very plastic so we wanted to create that and make the skin look really perfect,” he shares. He used Bobbi Brown Lip Color in Pale Mauve to create a subtle, nude lip with just a pop of pink. And for the ’50s cat eye, he lined the eye with Bobbi Brown Long-Wear Gel Eyeliner in Black Ink from the inner corner up to the crease and then drew out a triangle. He finished by lifting the eye with a coat of Bobbi Brown Everything Mascara on the top lash. “When the models are on the runway, they’ll just come out and it will be bam! The light will catch everything,” he exclaims.
With high-concept hair and plastic-like beauty, nails were kept very simple. The models wore gloves with cutout thumbs; logic follows that only the thumbs should be painted with just one coat of pink Priti NYC in Baby Talk. “They just wanted something very clean and natural,” shares Priti NYC owner Kim D’Amato. “As [I’ve] seen through Fashion Week, nails have gone back to clean and natural. Maybe people got a little tired of all the colors or something?” she quips.
[Photos courtesy of Nioxin; Molly Church]