Undercut Bob: Tips to Control Weight and Movement Without Layers

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Achieving the perfect bob can be quite difficult, especially if the client has full hair in the back and does not want layers.

“What do you do for those guests that want a really solid precise bob, but they have a ton of hair in the back, and don’t want a lot of layers? You undercut it,” explains Andrew Carruthers, education director for Sam Villa.

Undercutting the bottom layers of the bob allows the weight and bulk around the nape to be pushed up into the occipital, which allows hair to swing and have more balance. This method collapses the shape at the neckline and creates a nice scoop effect that lends extra fullness at the occipital.

To Achieve a Perfect Undercut:

  • Take a horizontal line from the top of the ear to the back to create an area to detach for a more balanced shape from front to back.
  • Use vertical sections down the back middle at 90º with a slight diagonal finger angle to create a nice short to long graduation.
  • Each new section is married with a previous section using natural overdirection. The guide hair and new hair meet in the center of the section to follow head shape.
  • Necklinecup hand and curve fingers at nape to better access hair.
  • Wrap dry the undercut area on medium heat and airflow with a handle comb. Dry it slowly so there is time to manipulate hair into place and create softness.
  • Detailing—use a detailing comb for precision and a Sam Villa Signature Series Reversible Blending Shear to carve out more softness. The blending shear can also be used to refine and soften the perimeter.

“Aside from creating a really beautiful silhouette, removing this weight also makes it easy for the guest to blow-dry their hair at home,” adds Carruthers.

Watch Andrew Carruthers cut an undercut bob HERE

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