How To Debulk Longer Hairstyles With Invisible Layers

Jesse Linares Debulk

The Sam Villa ArTeam is a group of hairdressers and educators who give tips and tricks on various looks. Jesse Linares is an ArTeam member who has a trick on how to debulk longer hairstyles.

“This is a technique for guests with longer hair that want a skinny debulked shape that lays close to the head…without seeing any layers,” explains Linares.


  • The top section is detached and does not get layered, so when it falls over the bottom section, hair looks one-length with less bulk.
  • A sweet spot is determined for zigzag parting and hair is selectively added to the top to keep it longer and dropped to the bottom to be cut shorter. Strategically make decisions in accordance with a design plan.
  • Elevate vertically straight up toward the ceiling to achieve shorter layers at the occipital while leaving length at the perimeter.
  • The shorter hair at the occipital creates the concavity at the nape for a slimmer shape.

“This approach creates empty channels in the underlayer, allowing the hair from the top section to neatly fall into the negative space to debulk the silhouette,” says Linares.

Linares advises to explain the strategy behind the technique to guests because the shorter layers might seem like the opposite of what they requested. If they know the “why,” it will help guests become more comfortable with the benefit the technique delivers.

For a visual of this tutorial visit Sam Villa Hair Tutorials.

[Image: Courtesy of Sam Villa ArTeam]

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