Dramatic Undercut by Sam Villa


Scarlett Johansson, Rihanna, Tilda Swinton, Jada Pinkett Smith, Kelly Osbourne and Pink are some the fierce women who have worn the shaved undercuts with confidence and attracted mainstream appeal. Geneva Cowen, Artistic Director for Sam Villa, gives a step by step on how to create it.

“In the past, feminine shapes have typically been rounder and men’s shapes leaner, but today we are applying both options to each gender. Shapes that can be styled ultra feminine or masculine, depending on mood,” says Cowen.

Back of the Head

  • Using the Sam Villa Signature Series 7" Dry Cutting Shear and Wide Cutting Comb, cut out disconnection with a shear over comb technique. Cut the entire area to the depth of the comb evenly.
  • Using an adjustable clipper with the blade set to most open position (position that leaves the hair longest) work from the hairline up towards the parietal.
  • At the top of this section, keep the blade angled away from the head to avoid creating any lines and to create the blend with the shear over comb length.
  • Use clippers with the adjustable blade closed to scoop out the bottom. Work this length about half way up the vertical plane of the side of the head and again rock the blade away at the top of the section to blend.
  • Continue towards the back of the head creating a nice soft curve towards the back of the head with the weight line.
  • With the Sam Villa Signature Series Razor with the Straight Edge Blade, clean up the neckline and blend to the shortest area of the clipper work.

Top and Crown

  • Comb hair into natural fall and establish desired length in the fringe.
  • Beginning in the center of the head, take a 1/2 inch vertical section.
  • Comb each section straight up at 90 degrees.
  • Working in radial partings, connect crown length to the length in the perimeter and use deep point cutting to create texture and movement. Continue throughout the top and crown area.

“Be sure to take time in the consultation to find out what your guest is looking for and then more time after the cut is done to teach them multiple ways to style their hair with product and tool recommendations,” adds Gowen.

Image Credits:
Hair: Geneva Cowen, Artistic Director for Sam Villa
Photography: Shalem Mathew
Makeup: Maria Camacho
Wardrobe: Gianna Foltz

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