Cheers to 70 years! Jatai International is celebrating 70 years of providing hair-cutting razors, shaving razors and other blades to the professional beauty industry. In addition to this milestone event, 2020 has been a pivotal year for the company in many other ways. When COVID-19 appeared to stop the business of stylists and barbers, Jatai regrouped to further extend a hand with new artist outreach programs, expanded online education, and a new website with major customer rewards plus sales and service benefits. The Jatai Academy continues to offer a direct connection to free online education and an interactive platform for artists on all levels. Here, Russell Mayes, director of content for Jatai Academy, shares the top five questions he receives from stylists about razors and razor cutting.
Can you use a razor on curly hair?
Yes and no. What type of hair you can use a razor on depends on the cuticle, more than if it’s curly. Some hair textures respond well while others do not. Some cuticle types tend to bristle when cut at an angle and perform better when cut blunt.
Does it matter if I use a guard vs. no guard?
The less of a guard you use, the more control you have when cutting. You can be more precise with your shape and texture as well. But a guarded razor will get you 90% more there than a guardless razor would. Once master cutting with a guard, you may find that you want more control, so move to a razor with either less of a guard or no guard at all...the point here is that you don’t have to use one.
How can I prevent losing my shape while razor cutting?
The solidity and bluntness of the shape you cut are determined by the stroke of the blade as you’re cutting your sections. The larger the stroke of the blade, the more airy and softer the shape. The tighter or smaller the stroke of the blade, the more solid your final haircut shape will be.
Does the razor damage the hair?
This depends on the cuticle texture and the sharpness of your blade, as well as your cutting action. Drier textures of hair don’t respond as well to being cut with a razor. If the blade is dull, this will only cause cuticle damage that could easily have been prevented by using a fresh blade. Also, if your cutting action isn’t positive or determined, you will partially cut strands without cutting them all the way through, which results in a less-than-solid shape.
Do I have to do the entire haircut with a razor?
No, you can do as much or as little as needed, determined by your desired results. You can cut the hair blunt with scissors and soften up the shape afterward with your razor. You can cut the entire shape with a razor, and then make the perimeter shape more blunt with scissors.