The autumn leaves are falling, and the reds and coppers have come out to play! While recent trends like cherry cola and cowboy copper have made these colors a year-round favorite, it's likely your clients are embracing them more as the weather cools. For these fiery shades in particular, consultation and maintenance is everything! With the proper knowledge, techniques and plenty of practices, you'll be able to have your clients fall for your reds and coppers for the long haul. To help you on your journey, we reached out to red and copper specialists who debunk myths, dive into the latest trends and share everything you need to know to bring these shades to life.
Debunking Myths
Before we even get into consulting, formulating, coloring and maintaining reds and coppers, let’s break down some common myths.
Traditionally, coppers and reds are seen as preferrable on certain skin tones, but both Lexie Haines (@thestrawberryblonder) and Kristeena Van Cleave (@thatrebelstylist) firmly disagree.
"There’s a red or copper tone for everyone! It’s all about choosing the right undertone for the skin — that’s where your stylist comes in. There are even cooler toned reds, like mine," Van Cleave says.
Liz Cook (@coloredbyliz) adds that you can never be too vibrant with these shades, despite what others may say.
"I encourage my clients to really turn up the heat in their color — go MORE red, go MORE copper — it will fade over time, so why not make it last?" she says.
As for fading, may clients may shy away from the color because they are afraid it won't last long-term. Van Cleave shares that it's all about maintenance. If the color is rapidly fading, it's likely it's not being cared for properly.
Current Red and Copper Hair Trends
There's been a slew of recent red and copper trends that have drawn eyes to this shade like never before, but what's trending now?
Cook shares that current popular copper shades have been influenced by the massive cowboy copper trend in 2024.
"I’ve been seeing a lot of variations with strawberry blondes, apricot coppers and adding more contrasted dimension," she says. "I think the cowboy copper trend in 2024 really helped contribute to everyone wanting a copper shade, as well as making it possible for everyone to enjoy. These lighter shades are the result of the cowboy copper trend fading and having to live in a warmer shade for a bit while transitioning back to blonde. I’m a huge fan!"
Like blondes and brunettes, warmth is also popular with reds and coppers. Haines shares clients are embracing the warmth because these shades are easier to maintain, allowing for longer gaps in-between salon sessions. With recession hair recently becoming a trending conversation topic, it's no surprise to see that some clients don't have as much time and money to dedicate to being in the salon.
Van Cleave shares that bright and vibrant coppers and lived-in auburns are also having a moment.
"Think spicy ginger and cinnamon browns," she tells us. "Social media’s obsession with natural yet bold tones has helped, plus celebs ditching the icy blondes for richer warmth has made people a little more adventurous!"
Hair Education
Before you can start offering red/copper color services for your clients, you have to get your education! Of course, practice and repetition is important, like any skill. But, here's what specific steps these specialists advise, so you can really master the color.
Cook recommends mastering the color wheel and learning color theory.
"Understanding color theory as an artist is essential to mastering hair color," she says. "Study color theory outside of a hair classroom. I would recommend studying color theory for painting using the book 'Color Theory' by Betty Edwards."
Haines shares that it's important to understand the nuances of your chosen color line and how much power each color holds to help with formulation, as some may lean into rosier pigments while others may be more golden.
Before starting on a human head, Van Cleave recommends swatching out colors on extensions or practicing on a mannequin to see how tones shift with undertones.
"I also recommend following red/copper educators on Instagram, taking formulation-focused classes and really diving into the science of warm pigments. Education never ends," she adds.
Consultations
Consultations is key for reds and coppers because clients need to understand the maintenance process, as these colors require commitment!
Van Cleave shares she asks about her client's lifestyle, so she can give them a proper maintenance plan and routine.
"Swimmers or daily hair washers need a maintenance plan," she adds. "I explain the fade rate, how extreme their grow out could be and make sure we’re aligned on tone — warm vs. cool."
When it comes to fading, Cook focuses on that the most in her conversation with clients.
"My biggest question to my client is: How long are you wanting to stay in the copper/red family? We know that coppers/reds fade, but they never fully leave," she says. "I like to prepare them that it's a commitment, but that doesn’t mean we can’t have fun along the way."
Haines focuses on toning in her consultation, so she can figure out what color her clients want to achieve during their appointment.
"I ask them if they want to live in more of a ruby red or orange. Levels 7 and 8 naturally have that orange underlying pigment, so the tone would be a truer copper. Anything below a level 7 would have more of a truer red," she explains. "The knowledge that a stylist needs to have before starting that type of color service is knowing when they need to reach for a higher developer, permanent color or a more vibrant formula or lightener. I rely on mainly permanent color with a higher intensity color pigment or developer in different zones of the head to shift someone to copper or red."
Common Challenges
As with any color, there are challenges to perfecting your formulation and achieving your desired results. Here's some obstacles that you can anticipate along the way.
Haines says hot roots are a particular challenge with coppers and reds. They can occur if the color isn't formulated correctly or if the client is is taking certain medication or experiencing hormone imbalances.
"When this happens, you either need to neutralize at the same level with a formula that has brown or yellow/green, or, if it is stubborn, go down a level and use those same tones," she says.
Cook shares that formulating the base color can be tricky.
"The consistency, density and natural color of the hair will all determine the outcome," she adds. "But, for some finer-haired clients, red is too large a molecule to sit in their hair permanently. They can be more prone for fading — and with a multidimensional color with ghost roots — it’s not a cute look. I tend to suggest a warmer, more natural base."
Van Cleave shares that fading and uneven porosity are her most common challenges.
"I always do a porosity check first, then use bonding treatments and protein-rich masks leading up to the service if needed. It’s all about prepping and protecting the canvas," she explains. "Account for porosity, and formulate correctly!"
Formulation Tips
If it wasn't clear by now, formulation is of utmost importance when creating red and copper shades. But what tips and tricks should you keep in mind?
Below, Cook shares her tips for formulating:
- For Reds: Add a tiny bit of violet and chocolate brown to your formula. This creates a deeper and richer red due to variations in tone.
- For Coppers: Add gold for brightness, and add red/violet for depth. There is so much more to copper tones then 7CC. When creating a true copper tone, think of a copper penny: it’s got golden brown, orange and pink. A true, bright copper will always have a mixture of tonalities — not JUST orange. Play around and have some fun.
Haines shares she also adds yellow/gold to her formula to avoid hot roots and creating too intense of a color.
"Also, the most pigment and highest developer should be used in the midshaft and should be applied first before roots and ends to make sure it has enough processing time and for a seamless transition," she adds.
Van Cleave shares her tips for formulation to avoid hot roots and browning out reds, saying, "Layer your color like a pro! I love pre-filling if needed and always add a little depth at the root for dimension. If doing a solid one safe, watch out for hot roots, drop the developer volume at the root to account for a warm scalp or level up on mids to ends. When refreshing, watch out for browning out your reds. Try using pure pigments on the ends or leveling up your color."
Must-Have Products
Here, our experts recommend their must-have products to create reds and coppers your clients will fall for!
- Liz: I stick to two brands: Milk_Shake and Danger Jones. I’ve tried them all, and for how I color my clients, these work the best. The color lines are created to heal while depositing color, and they’re meant to condition 100% of the time.
- Lexie: Vibrant color lines! I use Wella Koleston Perfect for my permanent color, and Danger Jones Gloss Toners.
- Kristeena: I love Kevin Murphy color for my reds! Having enough pigment without looking too brown is key.
Maintaining the Color
Once you've mastered formulation, it's time to teach your clients the art of maintaining their reds and coppers. If your clients want these colors to last, they are going to need to be meticulous in how they care for it!
All our experts recommend washing reds and coppers in cool water only to limit fading.
Van Cleave encourages clients to wash less and use a dry shampoo to stretch time between washes. She also tells them to stay out of the pool (or at least keep hair dry) to avoid losing tone.
When it comes time to wash, Haines recommends a shower filter to maintain the longevity of their color and health of their hair.
As for hair care, all the pros suggest using color-safe shampoos and conditioners. Van Cleave in particular recommends pigmented conditioners or masks. She also encourages clients to use heat protectants with UV protection and and bond-repair treatments once a week.
Regardless of how well clients care for their hair, fading is inevitable, so Cook encourages clients to embrace it!
"The fade is gorgeous and is part of the process," she says.
Timeline and Calendar
As your clients leave the salon with the products you’ve recommended, you want to book them for a follow-up appointment to keep them in your chair. When should you tell them to return? Here’s the timetable our experts follow for their clients.
Haines says the timeline she suggests for clients depends on the service she provides them.
"My red/copper clients see me every 6-8 weeks if they are strictly permanent color. If they are a dimensional color client that I tone over using a copper/red, I recommend every 3 months," she shares.
Van Cleave says clients should return to the salon every 4-6 weeks for best vibrancy, especially if they are rocking a fiery shade.
"For more lived-in coppers, I can stretch it to 6–8 weeks with a tone refresh at the halfway point. Some reds fade more naturally, others fade terribly. Totally depends on the red," she explains.
In general, Cook recommends clients come into the salon every 6-10 weeks for maintenance.
About Our Experts
Kristeena Van Cleave (@thatrebelstylist) is the owner of Blonde Culture Salon in Gig Harbor, WA and an educator with a focus on color theory. She was also a Beauty Launchpad 25 Under 50K recipient in 2023.
Lexie Haines (@thestrawberryblonder) is the owner of Salon Goldie in Glen Mills, PA. She was also a Beauty Launchpad 25 Under 50K recipient in 2023.
Liz Cook (@coloredbyliz) is the co-owner The Hand of Gawd in Ogden, UT, where she works as a hair colorist and tattoo artist. She was also a Beauty Launchpad 25 Under 50K recipient in 2022.
