A Stylist’s Perspective on Color Theory for Reds

As a hairstylist, working with reds can be both exhilarating and challenging. Red hair color is vibrant, dynamic and captivating. However, it requires a keen understanding of color theory to achieve the perfect shade and maintain its luster. In this article, we will dive into the intricacies of formulating red hair color by considering the natural underlying pigments and how to manipulate these colors using color theory. We’ll cover refreshing reds, softening, enhancing and shifting shades as well as maintenance tips, so your clients can keep their fiery locks looking fabulous.

Understanding Natural Underlying Pigments

When formulating red hair color, one of the first steps is to understand the natural underlying pigments present in the hair. Did you know, that reds are most vibrant at level 6-7? To learn why, keep reading. 

Levels 1-5 (Red):

At this level, the natural pigment is predominantly red. The lower the level (i.e. 1 or 2), the more intense the true red base when exposed to lifting agent like bleach or permanent hair color. However, the value or level is too dark to achieve the vibrancy that some clients are looking for.

Levels 6-7:

As we transition into levels 6 and 7, the underlying pigments shift toward orange, which is the perfect playground for a vibrant red! It will reflect more light at this level, so our vibrancy can flourish!

Levels 8-10 (Yellow): 

At these higher levels, the underlying pigments lean towards yellow. Although our level is nice and light, it can actually tend to mute reds and cause the color to fade rapidly. I would recommend filling the hair if you have lifted past an 8 for a vibrant red; however, strawberry blondes are beautiful at these levels. Understanding these levels is crucial in formulating the desired hue. If a client arrives with a level 7 base, for example, achieving a bright vibrant red will be much easier than if she arrives with a level 3.

Refreshing Reds Without Darkening

One common challenge with red hair is the tendency for colors to fade over time. If a client wants to refresh their red without darkening it, opt for a semi-permanent dye or a demi-permanent line that allows for a gentle refresh. This approach can rejuvenate the vibrancy while avoiding the heaviness that often comes with permanent.

Instead, use their original formula on their regrowth, and focus on tonal refresh alone on the ends. Here’s a tip! For reds that have become both dull and dark, grab a permanent clear and 10 volume to shift the hair 1-1.5 shades brighter, and then refresh the red color with a demi shade.

Softening Red Hair Color 

To soften red hair color that has become too bright, we can turn to complementary colors on the color wheel. The easiest way to create a softer look is to add a hint of green or blue, which counteracts the intensity of red. However, this doesn’t mean that you should go for a drastic change. Instead, consider incorporating a subtle demi overlay that’s 1-2 shades lighter than the goal, to gently soften the brightness without overly darkening or filling out the shade.

Enhancing Red Hair Color

To enhance and bring out red tones, utilizing yellow or orange is your best bet. Yellow can brighten a fading red, while orange can deepen and intensify the warmth within the shade. For instance, if a client finds their red has become dull, a quick refresh using a color depositing conditioner with orange undertones can help revive that original, vibrant red. A quick tip here: When enhancing red tones in the salon, be mindful of the level of warmth in the red you are working with. For instance, if the red tends to lean violet, a touch of yellow will bring about balance and a more true red. Add even more yellow tones to cross over to a copper red.

Shifting from Copper to True Red or Red Violet

If a client desires to shift their red copper color to a true red or even a red violet, utilize the color wheel to guide your formulation. For a red violet, incorporate a subtle mix of blue into the red formulation. A common strategy is the 1:2 ratio of pure red combined with a blue-based violet color. By doing this, you promote a more balanced uplift from copper tones to a more desirable, vivid red/violet hue.

Maintenance Tips for Red Hair 

As a redhead myself (artificially), I know that red color can be prone to fading. It is essential to educate clients on how to maintain their beautiful shades post-appointment. Here are some effective maintenance tips.

1. Color-Depositing Conditioners

Recommend clients use color-depositing conditioners at home that are designed for red hair. These will help keep the color vibrant between salon visits. I love mine!

2. Cold Water Rinse

Inform clients to rinse their hair with cold water post-wash. Cold water helps to seal the hair cuticle, retaining color and shine.

3. Less Frequent Washing

Encourage clients to wash their hair less frequently. Washing too often can strip color and natural oils, leading to dull, faded hair. Try suggesting dry shampoo on no-wash days.

4. Toning Refresh Appointments

Suggest an appointment every 4-6 weeks to refresh and tone their red hue. This consistent care can help maintain the vibrancy and excitement of the color. 

The Perfect Reds Are Possible

Mastering the formulation of red hair color requires a solid grasp of color theory and an appreciation for the unique qualities of red shades. By understanding underlying pigments and the interplay of complementary colors, you can create stunning results that meet your client's desires. With regular maintenance and a few strategic tips, you can help them maintain their vibrant red for as long as possible, ensuring their locks are always turning heads this fall! Whether it’s a soft, cherry-like hue or a striking copper, the possibilities with red hair are truly endless! Don’t forget to take one of my classes for more information on color theory.

About the Author: 

Kristeena Van Cleave (@thatrebelstylist) is an experienced hairstylist and educator with over a decade in the industry. She is the co-owner of Blonde Culture Salon, where she specializes in blonding and color theory. Her passion lies in educating fellow stylists, sharing her knowledge and techniques to help them enhance their skills and deliver exceptional results for their clients.