Your Salon's Guide to Redheads

Do a search of #redhead on Instagram and you’ll find 16.5 million posts—that’s 18.7 million less than #brunette and a whopping 55 million less than #blonde. Why no love for the lovely redheads? “I feel that redheads are a different language,” says colorist Cameron Kepford of Haus of Heir in Davenport, Iowa. “I think these colors receive the least amount of attention because of the fear of application from the stylist and the fear of the outcome for the client.” That fear can be somewhat unfounded, according to celebrity colorist Cherry Petenbrink, who not only transformed starlet Scarlett Johansson into redheaded Black Widow for the Marvel movie franchise, but also actress Ruby Rose for the CW’s reimagining of a fiery-maned Batwoman. “I had to bring my A-game. Trust me, these redheads got some big-time attention. But there is a misconception that only certain people can wear red hair,” she says. Don’t let any preconceived notions around crimson hues stop you from tuning into the latest redhead trends. Here, our pros break down how to market your reds, how to set crimson clients up for success and what cardinal color trends will keep them clamoring for more.

Find Your Light

While redheads might feel like a niche category compared to their blonde and brunette counterparts, anything “niche” is worth your attention, according to Kepford. Promoting your red creations on social media can help expand your clientele—but be cognizant of how you light these rich redheads. “Lighting red colors correctly for photos is key because reds catch so much light, shine, depth and vibrancy in the right lighting,” says colorist Jess Rowland. Agrees Petenbrink, “When photographed, shades of red hair ranging from strawberry blonde to bright copper to earthy reds have a huge amount of reflection. That’s because red and gold dyes are the primaries with the most reflection, while blue dyes tend to absorb light.” Kepford prefers to use natural lighting for his red creations, but if the light isn’t on your side, he suggests offering an incentive (like a free blowout) to your client for her return the next day during daylight hours. “In my experience, clients are excited to be showcased and have their photo taken,” he adds.

Connect with Confidence

Think confidence when promoting these images. “I feel redheads stand out in a crowd. Plus, a certain level of confidence goes with being a redhead,” says Petenbrink. Therefore, captions should follow suit. She suggests captions featuring variations on “be bold” or “dare to be different,” which work to convey the unique draw inherent to redheads. “These captions serve as a challenge for the right client to step up to,” Petenbrink says.

Create a Portfolio

The red family tends to be a little trickier when discussing color with clients. “Your interpretation of ‘red’ can be completely different than the individual you’re servicing,” says Kepford. He suggests creating a broad portfolio of reds—from sparkling coppers to fiery reds to deep burgundies—for clients to look through. “This will allow you to clearly communicate what the end result will be,” he says.

Redhead Trends

If you’re building up your red portfolio, you’ll want to start with these trends, which our pro colorists believe will be top of mind for clients seeking a scarlet makeover. No matter the hue, always true to the crimson crew: serious gloss, loads of dimension and gorgeous tonality.

Vibrant Rich Red

“These are deep yet vibrant and include a deeper root because most people like darker, richer colors in the cooler seasons, but still want that pop of vibrancy,” says Rowland.

Dusty Red

On the flipside, muted reds with a hint of ash in them will hit big this season, according to Kepford. “The ash lends an element of cool into the color,” he says, adding, “As the season changes and the client’s skin tone changes, these types of red shades will complement so many people.”

Dimensional Copper

Petenbrink notes this category can be as natural or as bold as your client prefers, and works well on medium-level dark blondes or light brunettes. Kepford views this trend as a great transitional look. “Copper is a baby step into red and I’m seeing a lot more people going for it,” he says, pointing to Riverdale actress Madelaine Petsch as a perfect copper-toned muse.

Deep Red and Copper Blend

“This combo adds warmth and dimension and is so eye-catching, fun and beautiful,” says Rowland.

Make Reds Last

Due to their larger size, red dye molecules simply don’t penetrate the hair cortex as deeply as other color molecules; hence, red haircolor tends to fade more quickly. Here, Petenbrink shares tips on how to slow color loss.

Incorporate “color building” into your service.

Add color in multiple steps to build or fill and balance the color results. “Think of painting a white wall red: You’ll need several coats of paint to achieve a bright, opaque red,” she says.

Do they need a lift?

Petenbrink gives these cues: For brunettes, lift and then deposit. If working with virgin hair, permanent color can often achieve the desired results—sans bleach. Client’s hair previously colored? Pre-lighten with bleach, then deposit with demi cream or permanent and a 5-volume to achieve desired results.

Tell clients to lay off the heat.

“Too high of a temperature on thermal tools is the number one reason for fading,” Pentenbrink says. Retail heat-protectant products as part of clients’ at-home maintenance.

Go color safe.

Create a package for clients with either color-safe or color-enhancing shampoos to help preserve vibrancy between appointments.