Shears, clippers and razors, oh my! When it comes to fashioning creative cuts, all three categories of tools can find a spot at your station. “To be truly well-rounded and offer a variety of cuts, styles and looks, you’ll need these cutting options in your toolbox—I often use all three to achieve one final result,” notes Cherry Petenbrink, freelance artist and creative and education director for Lisap Milano, U.S. division. “The more comfortable you become with them, the more creative you’ll become.” Here, we break down this trio of cutting tools to help narrow down the best options for you.
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Shears, clippers and razors, oh my! When it comes to fashioning creative cuts, all three categories of tools can find a spot at your station. “To be truly well-rounded and offer a variety of cuts, styles and looks, you’ll need these cutting options in your toolbox—I often use all three to achieve one final result,” notes Cherry Petenbrink, freelance artist and creative and education director for Lisap Milano, U.S. division. “The more comfortable you become with them, the more creative you’ll become.” Here, we break down this trio of cutting tools to help narrow down the best options for you.
Shear Sense
Petenbrink’s top requirement when selecting a shear: making sure it fits comfortably in her hand. “Shears come in a variety of lengths and designs, with handles made for fingers to rest and for pinky finger support,” she details. “Your go-to shears should be able to accomplish a variety of cutting techniques—point cutting, sliding, slicing, notching—on various lengths, densities and textures of hair.” Thus, Petenbrink believes it’s important to stock a variety of shears in your arsenal: those designed to cut dry hair; for barbering (with an extra-long blade); to create texture; thinning shears to minimize bulk; and precision-cut for detailing laser-sharp lines.
Meanwhile, Meagan Gallman, master cosmetologist/educator, advocates researching the manufacturer—reading reviews, researching the tool’s materials, and making sure the company is reputable. “Be selective on the choice of handles for your shears as there are a few different types—straight handles, offset handles and swivel-thumb shears,” Gallman says. “Choose the type that feels most natural to you and your position (both of the body and hand) when cutting. Your body will thank you later!”
For maintenance, Gallman recommends keeping shears sharpened—a dull pair of shears can harm hair and make your job unduly difficult. “Check the balance of your blades regularly, too,” she adds. “They may need adjusting with your designated shear key to resume proper cutting.”
A Steady Clip
When choosing clippers, Gallman stresses that the motor matters—and you often get what you pay for so don’t skimp, and check online reviews. “I didn’t research my first pair of clippers, and they were terrible,” Gallman recalls. “A great brand will make sure all of the parts are up to par, and just in case there is an issue, make sure the brand’s customer service is on point as well.”
Petenbrink notes that clippers are available in a variety of models (e.g., battery-charged cordless vs. plug-in cord) and in different weights, so evaluate how the tool feels in your hand. “Clippers are a must for all barbering techniques—the go-to for fades and cleanup in the neck area—and traditional clippers come with a variety of guards to achieve different lengths and styles,” Petenbrink explains. “What you can achieve with a clipper, you can’t achieve with shears. An important feature is the slide on the side; you can adjust to go to the scalp or leave a slight shadow.”
Gallman recommends cleaning and sanitizing your clippers and guards after each client, then deep-cleaning regularly. “You’d be surprised at the amount of hair that remains in the clippers after cleaning,” she says. “Don’t forget to oil your blades regularly—otherwise, it can cause a very unpleasant experience for your client.”
The Razor’s Edge
Like other cutting tools, make sure the razor you select feels comfortable in your hand, and maintain a clean, sharp blade for top performance. Petenbrink prefers a lightweight straight razor design, though folding razors are also popular. “I like razor cutting for a more featherlike finish, but a nice clean line can also be achieved,” she notes. “Many cutters prefer to do it all with a razor, while others like a variety of tools to achieve a look. But supercurly, naturally textured hair is not typically the optimal canvas for a razor cut.”
Practicing and perfecting your technique is crucial for razors—though you can create very soft looks, you can also remove too much hair too fast if you aren’t fluent in this cutting category. “If you aren’t currently using a razor, I encourage starting slow: softening lines and removing bulk through the ends,” Petenbrink advises. “As your confidence grows, you’ll get more enthusiastic about utilizing this great tool.”
Gallman agrees that experience matters in razor cutting and suggests that only experienced razor cutters use a straight-edge model. “One has to be much more meticulous when using this type of razor, because there are no guards to protect you from a haircut disaster,” Gallman explains. “Razors with feather guards are great because they do have a barrier to keep from cutting too much hair at once—but, when used properly, they create a very light and soft finish.”
In addition, Gallman notes, the razor’s handle makes a difference. “Some stylists prefer a closing razor because it’s more comfortable when cutting, and some prefer a straight handle for balance,” she says. “Keep in mind that razor cutting isn’t meant for all hair textures (such as baby-fine hair). Change the blades appropriately and, just as with any other hair tool, keep it sanitized.”
Cutting Edges
Check out these implements that will help you achieve the perfect cut.
KARG Shear K-SoftCut 6.1˝ with a hybrid blade scissor design and the Zero Gravity Tension System enables ultra-soft cutting. @mikekargofficial
Andis GTX-EXO Trimmer features a sleek design for working on intricate styles, including crystal-clear sight lines while perfecting any fade or trim. @andisclippers
Olivia Garden DryCutPRO is designed with extra-sharp blades that glide smoothly through dry or wet hair without drag for seamless, soft texture.@oliviagarden_int
WAHL Professional 5 Star Cordless Legend creates blended fades with a uniquely designed blade slide, coupled with a deep-tooth wedge blade.@wahlpro
Jatai International Feather Styling Razor Kit includes a Feather Styling Razor handle, a ten-pack of Feather Standard Blades and a Blade Disposal Case. @jataifeather
