Is there a trick to creating captivating coppers?
According to Eufora color development manager Joanne Rempel, “You must get your base to Level 7. That’s where orange and copper live naturally in underlying pigment. From there, it’s a matter of layering tone-on-tone for a coppery result that even the cleverest client couldn’t conjure up at home.”
To create the perfect Pumpkin Spice Copper, Rempel shares her proven four-step process:
Step 1: It is all about the base. (The model was a Natural Level 7.)
EuforaColor Base Formula (1:1.5 mixing ratio):
30g. Low Ammonia 9.32/9GV (this will lift the natural base, helping expose natural orange underlying pigment)
10g. No Ammonia 7.44/7CC (this will give an intense punch to the copper tonality)
1g. Low Ammonia Yellow Creative Pigment (this brightens up the tone and gives it depth)
62g. Universal Cream Developer, 20-vol./6% (this gives enough power to get hair to a light Level 7; if a natural Level 6, use 30-vol./9%)
Apply this “full strength” at the base (first 2-3 inches) and then dilute the formula with 50% No Ammonia Clear Shine Dilute and apply to mids and ends. Process fully and wash/rinse (do not condition).
Step 2: Pre-Lighten panels with foil. Eufora Pumpkin Spice 2020 p. 2
At the top of the head, create 5 or 6 diagonal forward slices going against the client's natural part from the top of the crown to the hairline. On the sides, create 3 or 4 diagonal forward slices from the mastoid process to the side front hairline.
AloeLite Pre-Lighten Formula (1:1.5 mixing ratio):
10g. AloeLite Cream Lightener
15g. Universal Cream Developer 10-vol./3%
Process to pale yellow and wash/rinse (do not condition).
Step 3: Tone for dimension.
This step will require two toning formulas. Do not give up! Extra energy here will yield frightfully brilliant results.
EuforaColor Toning Formula for the top (1:2 mixing ratio)
15g. No Ammonia 8.32/8GV (for a golden violet reflection)
3g. No Ammonia 6.5/6M (for an added mahogany undertone)
36g. Universal Cream Developer 10-vol./6% (this will lock in the tone and prevent a hollow result)
EuforaColor Toning Formula for the sides (1:2 mixing ratio)
10g. No Ammonia 5.22/5VV (for an intense violet reflection)
10g. No Ammonia Clear Shine Dilute (to “amp up” intensity while toning down opacity)
40g. Universal Cream Developer 10-vol./6% (this will lock in the tone and prevent a hollow result)
Process toner for a full 20 minutes to ensure full saturation that lasts. Wash/rinse once processed (do not condition).
Step 4: Get lasting results with a demipermanent float of EuforaColor Artisan Direct Dye.
Artisan Tangerine Zest Floating Formula:
8-parts Artisan Sunflower Yellow
1-part Artisan Citrus Orange
Globally apply for a massive infusion of reflective shine and color. Process for 20 minutes, then thoroughly rinse and condition (do not shampoo).
Turning out a custom color like Pumpkin Spice Copper is what separates a novice stylist from a master colorist, and is exactly the type of color service that provides the power to command premium prices.