Fisticuffs: A Collection by David Boyd for Sam Villa
is in a constant state of evolution - each new phase is the result of a revolution of the classics. Fisticuffs is such a revolution with a foundation in the dusty days of street ruffians and bare-knuckle boxers emphasizing the element of looking forward. The story is pure with minimal wardrobe and make-up. The focus contrasts modern salon shear techniques with traditional barbering clipper work and straight razor finishing on cuts and facial hair to illustrate the relevance of the past when designing current looks for fashion-forward guests. The only way to truly accommodate the needs of today's male clientele is to understand how classic barbering can influence modern texture and movement in a salon context.
Hair: David Boyd for Sam Villa
Photographer: Matt Peterson
Makeup: Courtney Mortensen
Wardrobe: David Boyd
Read on for more photos and the corresponding how-tos!
ation with an adjustable clipper in the open position. Establish clipper length on the sides and back up to the low parietal and low crown in the back. Use a shear over comb technique to blend up into and up/over the round of the head. Slight weight and length are maintained just above the round of the head to create a masculine and slightly square shape. Avoid rounding off the cut in the transition between sides and top.
The top is cut by over directing the fringe area back 1 inch from the front hairline and cut to finger length through the Mohawk section. Use shear over comb to finish and blend in the crown area and to address the whorl. To finish, use clipper in the closed position to create a slight graduation around the perimeter moving up 1 inch on the sides and 3 inches in the nape area of the back. Using a fine trimmer, establish sharp, clean lines around the ears and neckline while squaring off the shape in the back.
Finish: Work a small amount of Redken for Men grip tight holding hair gel in towel dried hair. Directional blow dry with the Sam Villa Professional Ionic Blow Dryer and the Sam Villa 9 Row Finishing Brush to create fullness and a soft shape. To add separation and texture, work a small amount of Redken for Men maneuver working wax into hands and style into place with a natural finish.
separating the sides from the top. The shear over comb technique is used on the back and sides using only the width of the comb to create minimal length up onto the transition from side of the head to the top of the head. Use the clipper in the open position to scoop up into the length for two fingers worth on the sides and three fingers worth in the nape area of the back. The Mohawk section is elevated 90° up from the head shape and cut maintaining 3 inches of length.
The top section remains detached from the back and sides. Over direct the entire top section to the left side of the head. A moderate detachment will be visible. Using the Sam Villa Signature Series Reversible Blending Shear, create a 50% blend of weight and detachment. Over direct the entire top section to the right side of the head and repeat the blending shear over comb to create 50% blending. Use a clipper in the open position to scoop out the first inch of perimeter to add a strong barbershop frame around the more modern and textured interior of the cut.
Finish: Work a small amount of Redken for Men grip tight holding hair gel in damp hair, blow hair dry with the Sam Villa Professional Ionic Blow Dryer, working back and away from natural fall to achieve moderate volume and fullness. To fix into place, use a medium amount of Redken work hard molding paste for men paste to sculpt a lean but full shape.
ong>Sam Villa Long Cutting Comb and Sam Villa Signature Series 7” Dry Cutting Shear, create a graduated shape working up and away from the head to maintain 1 inch of length on the parietal transition area resulting in a moderate buildup of length.
The entire top section of the head is over directed to the left side of the head. Using diagonal back sections from middle of the top of the head to the top of the graduation that was previously cut. Using the Sam Villa Signature Series 5” Swivel Shear, sections are cut over directed back onto the previous section resulting in a build up of length toward the front, maintaining a rounded-graduation in the silhouette. The entire top section is then over directed completely to the right side of the head. Again, using diagonal back sections the hair is cut from the middle of the top, connecting to the top of the previously cut graduation on the sides. A traveling guide is used to create a modest buildup of length to the front of the section.
Clipper over comb is used to clean up and refine the perimeter and a fine tremor is used to establish a strong and sharp finish around the ears and neckline.
Finish: Work a small amount of Redken loose ends liquid pomade to directionally blow dry hair into place with a hard part using the Sam Villa Professional Ionic Blow Dryer andSam Villa Signature Series 9 Row Finishing Brush. Once dry, use a moderate amount of Redken polish up pomade for men to add maximum control and shine to the finished shape. To make application easier, use a Sam Villa Signature Series Small Cutting Comb with medium tension to apply product from the palm of your hand to the hair.