Cosmo Prof™ and its Artistic Team of leading stylists are here to support the beauty community with education and techniques to keep stylists in the know on all the trends and how to perfect them. Artistic Team brand ambassador Jon Carlos partnered with Cosmo Prof™ to share the keys to achieving this beautiful color creation.
Carlos predicts that ombre and rooted looks will continue to be the color choice du jour for the majority of clients come autumn—with color correction services (like the one demonstrated in this how-to) being even more commonplace than the norm due to post-quarantine hair fixes. For this color creation—which Carlos achieved using his favorite Matrix products from Cosmo Prof™—Carlos divulges that his main approach consisted of “slicing, weaving, teasing and maximum saturation.” Of the latter, Carlos notes that, “Especially when working with thick, textured hair, my application needs to look like cake batter.”
Step 1: Section the hair in four quadrants. I started my balayage at the neckline on the right with a weaving section. I want the balance in the color to be seamless when my client puts her hair in any upstyle. I used foils (foliage) for this project for higher lift. I also had to be mindful when applying my lightener, avoiding lightener overlap on previously lightened section parts by moving those pieces out of the foil with my foiling comb before I folded and secured.
Step 2: I teased the hair that remained out of the foil from my weaving section upward with my comb and again, applied my lightener on the darker areas (avoiding product overlap). Backcombing creates a blend. I approached my next section with a slice. I teased that section upward with my comb to create a blend and I applied my lightener, avoiding overlap.
Step 3: I followed my third section the same way I started my first. Instead of going all the way up the same quadrant, I approached the left side the same way: weaving at the hairline, teasing what’s left out of the foil, avoiding overlapping, followed by a teased slice, etc. (weave, slice, weave, slice, weave, slice). I worked my way up tackling both sides, one after the other, for an even lift.
Step 4: For a seamless face frame, I approached the hairline with weaving sections starting at the client’s right ear lock. I worked my way up the right front quadrant the same way I did the back with slicing, teasing and weaving, leaving the hairline out. I weaved the hairline with babylights and created a money piece incorporating a slice with the babylights at the top front of the head, achieving a seamless face frame. I repeated the same steps on the left side. In between the process as I checked my foils, I reapplied my lightener to all the hair in the foils (including the hair I moved out of the foils) for an even lift.
Step 5: After rinsing all my foils, I smudged the roots for a blended transition and then applied a toner to the blonde for a beautiful gold-beige finish.
Some of my favorite color-helpers include:
- Lightener: Light Master 30v developer
- Roots: 4g with a shot of blue booster 10v developer
- Matrix Color Sync Demi-Permanent Hair Color, 4G Gold
- Matrix SoBoost Blue
- Matrix 10 Volume Universal Crème Developer
- Toner: 10g 10v developer
Cosmo Prof™ has colorists covered as the one-stop shop for their color products and accessories. There are several ways stylists can shop safely, whether it be in-store, online at cosmoprofbeauty.com, through curbside pick-up, store consultants, or even same-day delivery at select locations. Get all the color you could want, and be safe while you shop!