Kohl-rimmed eyes and teen-influenced hair alights at Jill Stuart.
Teenagers: So full of life and expectations—and constantly a source of inspiration for designers, as is the case for Jill Stuart, who’s 2012 Spring/Summer collection packs in youth with pleated culottes and skirts, all done in sherbet hues.
(Courtesy of Kérastase)
The hair, delightfully disheveled and pulled across the forehead so that it skims the eyes, is a teenage dream as well. “Teenagers like to hide behind their hair from time to time. They like to peek out and see boys,” explains Kérastase hair lead Odile Gilbert, pointing to the swooping bangs. “It’s very natural-looking—like something the girls would wear on the streets—but also very innocent and sexy.”
(Courtesy of Kérastase)
She coaxes out texture by massaging a generous amount of Kérastase Mousse Volumactive throughout the hair, and then layering Kérastase Lotion Densitive on the lengths and ends. Like any teenager would, Gilbert scrunches tresses with her hands as she blow-dries—a trick that infuses the hair with rough texture and volume. After drawing a deep side part, she sweeps the front section across the forehead, twists it loosely, and secures it with a bobby pin and a few spritzes of Kérastase Double Force Hair Spray.
For makeup, lead makeup artist Diane Kendal points to the ’70s beauty ideal as her muse: “It’s that mixture of sophistication and bohemia, but young at the same time,” she says. Central to the look: disarming kohl-rimmed eyes. Using an angled brush, she lines the inside of both the top and bottom of the eyes with a black kohl cream liner. “Once it’s dried a little bit, we take a clean brush and trace over the liner to soften it,” she says. To add depth to the overall look, Kendal applies brown grease paint to the contour of the eyelids and brushes on highlighter and a combination of pink and peach on the cheeks, courtesy of Jill Stuart Mix Blush Palette, which she says “gives a really natural warm glow to the skin.” The lips boast a perfect sherbet hue that morphs from girl to girl: Kendal first dabs foundation on the lips to zero out the natural coloring, and then dusts on a custom combo of neon pink and orange pigments. “It gives a hint of stain without too much color,” she concludes. —Karie L. Frost/Beauty Etc.
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