As environmental stressors intensify and consumer expectations evolve, hydration is no longer limited to lipid replenishment at the skin’s surface. The focus is shifting toward maintaining optimal hydration inside cells and supporting their ability to adapt to daily stress. In this context, Laboratoires Expanscience introduces OSMOLYA® (INCI : Propanediol & Water & Iresine Weberbaueri Flower Extract), a naturally derived active ingredient designed to support hydration at the cellular level. Moving beyond traditional moisturization, the focus is now on optimizing how skin cells manage and retain water under daily environmental stress.
A plant adapted to extreme environments
OSMOLYA® is extracted from Iresine weberbaueri, an endemic Peruvian plant known for its ability to survive in extreme conditions. This resilience is linked to its ability to finely regulate internal water balance by naturally producing betaine, making it a relevant model for addressing modern hydration challenges through a bio-inspired approach.
Through this sourcing strategy, Laboratoires Expanscience also revalorizes a plant that remains relatively unknown outside of Peru, despite its rich biological potential, while using a green extraction process.
OSMOLYA® is a water-soluble extract rich in betaine (≥13%) and polyphenols (≥6%), two families of molecules involved in protecting cells against osmotic, oxidative and inflammatory stress.
Targeting cellular osmoregulation
OSMOLYA®’s mechanism is its ability to support osmoregulation, the process by which cells maintain their internal water balance.
In-vitro studies show that OSMOLYA® activates the cellular response to osmotic stress and increases the expression of key osmolyte transporters (TAUT for taurine, SMIT for myo-inositol, and BGT1 for betaine), supporting the skin’s ability to maintain optimal hydration at the cellular level.
Beyond osmoregulation, OSMOLYA® contributes to barrier integrity by stimulating key epidermal markers such as HAS3, TGAS1 and involucrin, while increasing occludin expression, in an ex-vivo model. This reinforces the cohesion and functionality of the skin barrier, which plays a central role in maintaining hydration.
Clinically proven skin benefits
The performance of OSMOLYA® has been evaluated in various clinical studies designed to assess both short- and long-term hydration.
At a concentration of 2%, the ingredient demonstrated a rapid increase in skin hydration, measurable as early as one hour after application, with immediate efficacy confirmed by corneometry (+13% vs. T0 after 1 hour).
These effects were sustained over time, as shown by corneometry measurements (+58% vs. placebo after 3 days) and a significant reduction in TEWL (−54% vs. placebo after 3 days).
In addition to instrumental data, both clinical scoring and self-assessment highlighted visible improvements in dryness, roughness and desquamation. Raman spectroscopy further revealed a significant increase in stratum corneum thickness compared to the placebo, supporting its role in strengthening the skin barrier.
Extending hydration to hair care
A study conducted on different hair types (2B and 4A) showed that OSMOLYA® enhances internal hair hydration by increasing the proportion of strongly bound water within the fiber, indicating improved water retention compared to the placebo.
Additional studies further highlight its performance on textured hair. At 2%, OSMOLYA® significantly reduces frizz and enhances curl definition on type-3A hair, resulting in visibly improved hair quality, compared to T0.
In addition, the ingredient reinforces thermally damaged hair fibers more effectively than a placebo, improving strength and resilience.
Meeting naturality standards
Compliant with COSMOS and NATRUE standards, OSMOLYA® aligns with the highest expectations for naturality, quality and transparency. Delivering immediate and long-term hydration, it leaves skin smoother, softer and visibly replenished, while strengthening the barrier and protecting against daily dehydration stress. Its benefits extend to hair, enhancing hydration, improving curl definition and reducing frizz for stronger, more resilient fibers.
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