The Cross Layered Crop by Ruth Roche

Clients cutting their hair short for the first time typically have a few concerns about losing their length. Here, Artistic Ambassador for Pureology Serious Colour Care Ruth Roche gives her tips on creating a short look your client will love.

"When clients are going short for the first time, most want to still feel feminine – so I like to give them a cross layered crop, because it’s on the longer side of short. It’s undercut, but not hard, has lots of movement and texture, and it can be styled in many different ways – one side/other side, middle part, tucked/not tucked, slicked - you get the drift,” says Roche.  

Key things to remember when doing the cross layered crop:

  • Cut hair wet so the uncut hair sticks to the guide.
  • Use the fine teeth of a cutting comb to create tension when using the razor.
  • Mind the length of the layers – 3” in bottom back, 2.5" in the front and 5” in the Mohawk section.
  • For the back, use small straight lines to create the rounded layers that mimic the shape of the head.


Roche also uses a technique called “Curtains” to texturize and keep the silhouette close to the head:

  • Use pointer and thumb to part hair like a curtain.
  • Pinch the hair underneath that is closest to the head.
  • Softly etch with a razor.

“Remember short hair pushes long, that’s what creates the movement in this cut,” adds Roche.

[Image: Jason Merritt via Getty Images]

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