“Cynthia wanted the hair to reflect a woman who is put-together, but not uptight,” says Redken lead stylist Rita Marmor backstage at Cynthia Rowley’s Fall 2011 show. “This woman is stylish, yet down-to-earth.” Down-to-earth registers as a small twisted section on the crown that joins with a large, flossy bun and two graphic Lucite combs designed by none other than Rowley. “The twist adds that little ‘something.’ Cynthia’s collection features a lot of diagonal patterns, and I wanted to bring in that graphic element to the hair,” Marmor explains.
To prep the hair, Marmor applies Redken Full Frame 07 Protective Volumizing Mousse, which helps build up body and texture, and paves the way for serious teasing. She blow-dries strands, then pulls the hair back into a ponytail. From there, ratting becomes a full-blown task, and Marmor sprays sections of the tail with Fashion Work 12 Hairspray as she gently backcombs the hair using a Mason Pearson brush. To further heighten texture, she crimps some sections, which she notes “allows for more volume and lightness.” She rolls the ponytail under into itself, secures it, and then lightly goes over the shape, pulling out little wisps here and there for an unfussy feel.
Each girl receives two Lucite hair combs, and Marmor inserts them near the bun—wherever she feels best suits the girl. To finish, she sprays Shine Flash 02 Glistening Mist (out in April 2011) on the top section because “I still need to have some shine and prettiness in this style, even though it’s heavy on texture!” she says. -Karie L. Frost