The deepening shades of Mother Nature during the autumn months often inspire clients to take a walk on the dark side with rich brunette tones.
To help salon patrons stay on trend this upcoming fall, master colorist and RUSK artistic director Laura Gibson has created two brunette color creations.
Chocolate Cinnamon Reflects Step-by-Step
According to Gibson, this fall color is great for any client with a base of level 5 or below who wants to add dimension but not blonde.
“This technique keeps the depth in the hair and sprinkles chocolate cinnamon reflects throughout,” she explains.
- Step 1: Starting at the front hairline carve out 2-3-inch-deep sections on each side of the part. Secure each side with a clip. Tip: If you want more lightness around the face, section out 3 inches.
- Step 2: Create left and right sections by parting the hair down the middle from the front sections to the nape.
- Step 3: Section from the top of the head to behind each ear. Secure each side with a clip.
- Step 4: Starting in left nape, tease five times and weave a thin diagonal back subsection. Apply 1 oz. Rusk Deepshine Gentle Cream Lightener + 2 oz. of Rusk Deepshine Shine Enhancing 20 Volume Developer and secure in foil. Leave 1 inch in between foils.
- Step 5: Repeat technique to reach the top of the head.
- Step 6: Repeat technique for the right-back nape section.
- Step 7: Starting at the top of the head on the left, tease three times and weave a thin Diagonal Forward Subsection. Apply 1 oz. Rusk Deepshine Gentle Cream Lightener + 2 oz. of Rusk Deepshine Shine Enhancing 20 Volume Developer. Secure in foil. Leave a ¾-inch space between each foil.
- Step 8: Continue the same technique to reach the hairline section. Follow the same pattern on the right.
- Step 9: At the hairline, take thin vertical subsections and weave and tease two times. Apply 1 oz. Rusk Deepshine Gentle Cream Lightener + 2 oz. of Rusk Deepshine Shine Enhancing 20 Volume Developer. Secure in foil. Leave a ½ inch of space between foils for hairline sections.
- Step 10: Repeat on the opposite side to complete the head. (This may only be two to four foils in this section depending on the client’s hair density).
- Step 11: Process until desired lightness is achieved. Shampoo with RUSK PUREMIX Pomegranate Color Protecting Shampoo. Towel dry and prepare to gloss.
- Step 12: Gloss with 1 oz. of Rusk Deepshine Gloss 6CH + 1 oz. of Deepshine Zero Lift Balancing Lotion and process up to 20 minutes.
- Step 13: Shampoo and condition with RUSK PUREMIX Pomegranate Color Protecting regiment. Style as desired.
Chocolate Nutmeg Swirl Step-by-Step
“This fall is all about brunettes! This color will give your brunette clients all the autumn vibes they are looking for,” Gibson enthuses.
Formula 1: Rusk Deepshine Permanent Cream Condition Hair Color ¾ oz. 5.8CH + ¼ oz. 5.03NL + 2 oz. of Rusk Deepshine Shine Enhancing 20 Volume Developer.
Formula 2: Rusk Deepshine Permanent Cream Conditioning Hair Color 1 oz. 6.8CH + 2 oz. of Rusk Deepshine Shine Enhancing 30 Volume Developer.
- Step 1: Apply Formula 1 from roots to 3 inches down globally.
- Step 2: Section down the middle from the front hairline to the nape.
- Step 3: Section from ear to ear to separate the back from the front. Clip front sections away.
- Step 4: Starting on the left side at the back nape, take a 2-inch diagonal back section, lay a foil down and apply Formula 2 from where Formula 1 (regrowth) stops to the ends. Place a foil on top of the section.
- Step 5: Repeat the same technique taking 2-inch diagonal back sections and alternate Formula 1 and Formula 2 for the mid-lengths and ends until you reach the top of the head.
- Step 6: Repeat on the right side.
- Step 7: At the left front hairline take a ½-inch subsection and apply Formula 2 from where Formula 1 (regrowth) stops to the ends. Place a foil under and on top of the section. Repeat on the right side at the hairline.
- Step 8: After the initial subsections, follow this pattern on both left and right sides to complete the head: Take 1-inch diagonal back sections and alternate Formula 1 and Formula 2 from where Formula 1 stops to the ends. Place foil on top and bottom of each section. Continue to reach the top of the head.
- Step 9: Process for 35 minutes.
- Step 10: Shampoo and condition with RUSK PUREMIX Pomegranate Color Protecting regiment. Style as desired.
