Industry legend Sam Villa on how he created this square shag look with a Sam Villa Artist Series 6" Slide Cutting Shear.
How to Slide Cut a Square Shag
- Prep wet hair with a small amount of cutting lotion like the Redken Brews Get Groomed Finishing Cream.
- Section along the vertical transition (or parietal ridge) on both sides of the head, meeting at the center back just below the crown. Isolate this top section and clip away securely with a Sam Villa Dry Sectioning Clip.
- Beginning at the front hairline in the lower area, take a half-inch vertical section. Elevate 90° horizontally (hair parallel with the floor) and using a vertical finger angle, slide cut from the shortest length at the top of the section to the desired perimeter length at the bottom of the section.
- Move section by section toward the center back, using the previous section as an approximate guide. Repeat these movements on both sides of the head.
- Release the top section and divide into halves from center front to center back.
- Take 1⁄2" vertical sections starting in the front hairline. Elevate 90° horizontally and slide cut from the interior, blending to the top of the previously cut bottom areas.
- Move section by section toward the center back; repeat these movements on both sides of the head (this will create a square-like shape). If a more rounded top is desired, add the following final step: Elevate 1⁄2" vertical sections 90° (parallel with walls) and remove weight at the top of the section, closest to the center line.
- Rewet hair to collect the curls back together and reapply Redken Brews Get Groomed Finishing Cream throughout.
- Use a towel to squeeze out extra water and define curls.
- Attach a diffuser to the Sam Villa Artist Series Blow Dryer, set to high heat/medium air flow, and hold the diffuser on the outside of the shape.
- In areas where more fullness is desired, elevate hair and hold in the diffuser bowl as the hair dries.
- Once hair is 100 percent dry, stretch curls by hand for a looser texture.
[Image: Courtesy of Sam Villa; Hair: Sam Villa ArTeam; Photo: Katie Parker; Makeup: Nicole Schimel; Wardrobe: Brittany Hart]
This story first appeared in the Fall issue of MAN magazine. To receive the magazine, click here to subscribe.