Festival season is upon us! And whether your client will be head- banging at Lollapalooza, twirling at Coachella or dancing at Stagecoach, she’ll want to stand out while kicking it to the music. Here, top artists reveal their fave vivid and pastel shade trends and formulations that’ll make her hair dance with color.
Who: Clayde Baumann for Wella Professionals.
*Using Color Fresh Create line
Formula A: 30g. New Blue + 15g. Infinite Orange
Formula B: 20g. Super Petrol + 5g. Never Seen Green + 2g. New Blue
Formula C: 32g. Super Petrol + 32g. Never Seen Green + 8g. New Blue
Step 1: Section pre-shampooed towel-dried hair into four sections: at its natural center parting, and from the top crown to behind the ear.
Step 2: From the nape to the occipital bone, apply Formula A from roots to ends.
Step 3: From the occipital bone to the lower crown, apply Formula A to roots and over the first 2.5cm. of previously lightened hair, blending into Formula B. Repeat the same technique at the sides, stopping at the temple areas. Work roots to ends on each section for a seamless blend from Formula A to Formula B.
Step 4: On remaining hair (top section), blend Formula A to the first 8cm. of the root area, creating a larger stretched root, and blending Formula C to the mid-lengths and ends. Work roots to ends on each section for a seamless blend, and work the color through the hair with your hands and a comb.
Step 5: At the fringe area, maintain Formula A at the roots in the first two to three sections, blending into Formula B. Then, progress to a larger root area, blending Formula A into Formula C. Develop for 20 minutes. Rinse until water runs clear, then style.
Who: Joel McCauley for Crazy Color.
Step 1: Lift the model’s hair to a clean base Level 10.
Step 2: Starting at the nape of the neck, apply 10g. Sapphire + 20g. Bubblegum Blue + 30g. Slate + 40g. Neutral Mix.
Step 3: Once blue meld is complete, introduce pink into the hair via 15g. Candy Floss + 30g. Peach Coral + 20g. Neutral Mix.
Step 4: Use a melting technique that allows the colors to come together seamlessly. Then, slice the sections to give maximum impact. (Note: This technique
was used in every other section, alternating the shades on top of each other for a watercolor effect.)
Who: Jenn Covey for Eufora.
Virgin Lightener Formula: 20-vol. Color Elixir + AloeLite Blue Bleaching Pods
Lightener Formula: 40-vol. Color Elixir + AloeLite Blue Bleaching Pods
Toner: 30g. No Ammonia 10.12 + 20g. No Ammonia 10.1 + Color Elixir with 7-vol. Artisan Formula: 11g. Red Rose + 3g. Sunflower Yellow + 150g. Moisture Intense Conditioner
*Starting at a Level 7 base
Step 1: Apply Virgin Lightener Formula on regrowth at the scalp.
Step 2: Administer Lightener Formula on mid-shafts and ends. Process for 50 minutes.
Step 3: Lift to a Level 10 with a second application of Virgin Lightener Formula (if necessary).
Step 4: Tone for 15 minutes.
Step 5: Apply Artisan Formula to dry hair.
Process for 30 minutes.
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Who: Robertina Martinez, Michael Dueñas and Tommy Cole for Aloxxi.
*Model is a natural Level 2 with fine hair and normal porosity
Formula A: Chroma 6AA with 10-vol. Developer
Formula B: Chroma 8AA with 10-vol. Developer
Formula C: Chroma 9AA with 10-vol. Developer
Formula D: Chroma 10AA with 10-vol. Developer
*Model is a natural Level 2 with fine hair and normal porosity.
Step 1: Pre-lighten to light yellow with Ultra Lightener + Blue 20-vol. Developer
Step 2: Apply ColourPrime Pre-Color Treatment.
Step 3: Apply Formula A at the base, then feather into Formula B, then Formula C into Formula D, through mid-lengths and ends.
Step 4: Develop, then rinse thoroughly and apply ColourLock Post-Color Finisher.
Step 5: Overlay with InstaBoost Conditioning Color Masque in Silver Fox. Leave on for 5 minutes, then rinse thoroughly.
Who: Georgia Reed for Malibu C.
Highlights: TIGI True Light White with Trionics 20-vol.
Formula A: Pulp Riot Powder + Pulp Riot Sea Glass + Malibu C Blue Pure Pigment
Formula B: Pulp Riot Sea Glass + Pulp Riot Absinthe
Formula C: Pulp Riot Lilac + a dot of Malibu C Red and Blue Pure Pigments
Step 1: Start by shampooing with Malibu C Un-Do-Goo Shampoo and applying Malibu C Crystal Gel to each section. Process with cap under heat for 45 minutes to prep hair for lightening.
Step 2: Shampoo again with Un- Do-Goo.
Step 3: Take a slight diagonal back section from the right ear down to under the left ear, about 3 inches thick. (This is the vivids section.)
Step 4: Highlight the rest of the hair, applying in a corrugated pattern and alternating diagonal front to diagonal back.
Step 5: Take out the section of hair reserved for the vivid color
and completely lighten, taking thin sections and feathering up, keeping about 1⁄2-inch away from the scalp.
Step 6: Once lifted, rinse and cleanse with Malibu C Crystal Gel for approximately 60 seconds to stop oxidation. Rinse and blow- dry the back section and apply Formulas A, B and C.
Step 7: Process for 30 minutes.
Step 8: Rinse, then condition with Malibu C Rehabilit8 and Malibu C Illumin8 backbar mixers.
Who: RockyVitelli for Farouk Systems.
Formula A (Roots): Chromashine—1 part Out of the Blue + 2 parts Pearl White
Formula B (Mid-shafts): 4 parts Pearl White + 1 part Out of the Blue
Formula C (Secondary color): 1 part Out of the Blue + a drop of Dangerously Red (to create a rosy tone) + 4 parts Pearl White
Formula D (Bottom): (Yellow Tips) 3 parts Pearl White + one part Mellow My Yellow.
Who: Chrystofer Benson and Lasha Keller for Matrix.
Lightener Formula A: 1:1 Light Master and 40-vol. Cream Developer and Bond Ultim8
Formula B: SoColor Cult Marble Gray Semi + 3 drops Black Semi
Formula C: 3:1 SoColor Cult Dusty Blue Semi + Retro Blue Semi
Formula D: SoColor Cult Sparkling Rose Semi + 1 drop Flamenco Fuchsia Demi
Formula E: 1:1 SoColor Cult Dusty Blue Semi + Clear Semi
Formula F: SoColor Cult Dusty Purple Semi
Step 1: Pre-lighten with Lightener Formula A from mid-lengths to ends. Process for up to 50 minutes. Rinse thoroughly and cleanse lightly.
Step 2: Pre-tone. Apply Total Results Brass Off Mask to hair at the backbar. Process for 5 to 10 minutes. Rinse thoroughly. Dry.
Step 3: Re-section hair into quadrants. Apply Formula B to the new growth.
Step 4: Working in a triangular pattern, take 3-inch subsections and alternate Formulas B, C, D, E, and F, working down the hair. Process up to 30 minutes.
Step 5: Rinse thoroughly, then apply Bond Ultim8 Step 2 Sealer Treatment. Rinse well.
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Who: Hanna James for Kenra Professional.
Balayage Formula: Simply Blonde Blue Powder Lightener
Root Shadow Formula: Demi 7CG + 8C+5R
Step 1: Balayage, incorporating shadow roots.
Step 2: Color-melt sections by using alternating sections of Creative Orange + Yellow + Red, then administer Creative Yellow on ends.
Who: Sara Sue Artistry for CLiCS
Base Formula: 100g. Creme Lightener + 6g. CoBonder + 100g. 40-vol. Developer
Formula A: 12g. 00N + 3g. R + 3g. LtVB + 18g. 20-vol. Developer Formula B: 20g. O + 20g. 20-vol. Developer
Formula C: 20g. Y + 20g. 20-vol. Developer
Formula D: 10g. LtBB + 5g. V + 15g. 20-vol. Developer
Formula E: 30g. LtBB + 30g. 20-vol. Developer
Formula F: 20g. 00N + 5g. B + 2.5g. Y + 27.5g. 20-vol. Developer
Step 1: Part hair into 11⁄2-inch pinwheel sections. Apply Base Formula in alternating sections, leaving natural sections between.
Step 2: Process until Level 9 is achieved, then rinse and dry hair.
Step 3: Apply Formulas A, B and C (warm tones) to lightened areas using color melt technique red/orange/yellow.
Step 4: Apply Formula D, E and F (cool tones) violet/blue/teal to every other section, leaving natural color between.
Who: Guy Tang for #mydentity.
Balayage Formula: #Magnum8 Powder Lightener + Permanent Developer 40V (1:2) + #Big9 Crème Lightener + Permanent Developer 40V (1:11⁄2)
Color Melt: Super Power Direct Dye Purple Raven, Super Power Direct Dye Magenta Magic
Step 1: Backcomb balayage and process for 20 to 45 minutes, or until a Level 9 to 10 is achieved.
Step 2: On dry hair, apply Purple Raven on the rootagé and melt into Magenta Magic. Process for 20 minutes.
Who: Megan Schipani for Schwarzkopf Professional.
Balayage Formula: BLONDME + 20- vol. Developer
Toner Formula: IGORA Vibrance 9.5-89 + 0-00, 9.5-22; IGORA Color Worx Blue; IGORA ROYAL Pearlescence 9.5-29 with Igora Vibrance 0-11
Who: Ashley Feht for Lakmé.
*Model is a natural Level 7.
Step 1: Create a full highlight using K.Blonde Bleaching Cream and 20-vol.
Step 2: Alternate using the Teknia Ultra Red and Teknia Ultra Violet treatments at the scalp, and then paint ribbons of Ultra Red Shampoo, Ultra Copper Shampoo, Ultra Violet Shampoo, and Ultra Clair Shampoo.
Step 3: Process for 30 minutes, then rinse thoroughly.
Who: Colin Caruso for John Paul Mitchell Systems.
Formula: The Demi 10V + 10BV + 10PA
Color Melt Formula: PopXG Tropical Blue, Yellow, Red
Step 1: Pre-lighten hair to a Level 10.
Step 2: Create four sections.
Step 3: Apply The Demi 10 series in diagonal back sections.
Step 4: In one slice in each section, apply the Color Melt Formula using a color melt technique.
Who: Janessa Berry and Andrew Madvin for ColorDesign.
Formula A: 30g. 5.01 Permanent Color + 45g. 10-vol. Developer
Formula B: 25g. Fun&Glam Candy Pink + 5g. Fun&Glam Wild Bordeaux
Formula C: 35g. Fun&Glam Explosive Yellow + 5g. Fun&Glam Fresh Orange
Formula D: 60g. Fun&Glam Clear Gloss + 5g. Fun&Glam Fresh Orange + 5g. Fun&Glam Extreme Red + 5g. Fun&Glam White Diamond + 5g. Fun&Glam Candy Pink
Step 1: Begin on Level 8 pre-lightened hair.
Step 2: Utilizing diagonal back partings, apply shadow base (Formula A) to the entire head using ColorDesign’s elevation technique to soften any lines of demarcation. Process for 35 minutes. Shampoo with Reconstruction Shampoo. Apply Reconstruction Oil for 5 minutes. Then, fully dry hair.
Step 3: Again, utilizing the diagonal back section starting at the nape, create a dimensional color melt, alternating formulas B, C and D throughout the head.
Step 4: Rinse each foil individually and thoroughly to prevent any color transfer. Apply Reconstruction Mask for 5 minutes. Style as desired.
[Images: Courtesy of artists and manufacturers]
This story first appeared in the April issue of The Colorist magazine. To receive the magazine, click here to subscribe.