Sam Villa, Founding Partner of the Sam Villa® brand and Education Artistic Director for Redken 5th Avenue, shares his big volume tips!
Volume is a big trend this fall, and the bigger the better. I love that it was explained as “riotous volume” on the Marc by Marc Jacobs runway by Harper’s Bazaar.
What’s great about this volume is that it’s big and airy, without being perfect or stiff; it has a more organic feel than the volume of the 80’s. It’s also ideal because both straight and naturally curly hair types can pull it off. I use a Textur Lacing technique for building volume because it creates a texture that lasts a really long time.
• Apply Redken Iron Shape 11 and directionally blow dry hair up and back with a Sam Villa Signature Series Styling Brush to create volume in the front.
• Use the Sam Villa Signature Series Textur Iron to texturize the entire head.
• Target where to build volume and section hair in that area into slices.
• Backcomb each slice with a Sam Villa Signature Series Tail Comb by holding hair up 90° with four fingers and the palm of the hand, not the thumb – three long strokes to build a cushion and then lighter strokes working towards the ends. For fine hair that needs to be roughed up or when backcombing won’t hold, use the Textur Iron to backcomb the section instead of the tail comb. The altered texture in the compressed sections has mega staying power, especially when sections are stacked.
• Brush hair up and back and spray Redken Control Addict 28 high-control hairspray for hold.
This texture can literally last until hair is washed. I’d say you can get 2-3 days of volume out of it. When the volume starts to deflate, clients can capitalize on the altered texture to support ponytails and braids.
The big volume can also be used to create staying powder for updos. You’re essentially backcombing with a thermal tool and it delivers unimaginable hold and support. Here’s how to create a cushion or padding for an updo.
• Create a horizontal section at the top/crown area of the head. Place the Textur Iron at mid-shaft and compress lightly.
• Slide the iron down the shaft of the section to build volume at the base. Imagine you’re backcombing the section with the iron.
• Continue working with horizontal sections as you work forward on top of the head. Repeat this step to build a solid base for the updo.
• Apply Redken Control Addict 28 high-control hairspray for maximum control.
• Using a flat styling brush, brush through the hair to begin forming the cushion/padding.
• Use hands to form the shape of the style, pin/secure and finish with more hairspray.
Now is the time to go BIG – try some new techniques and get clients excited about something different.
-Sam Villa, Founding Partner of the Sam Villa® brand and Education Artistic Director for Redken 5th Avenue
[Image courtesy of Glow Communications]