Oil is the New Serum

The new generation of hair oils is a rapidly growing category. With claims of being a pre-shampoo treatment, leave-in conditioner, detangler, shine enhancer, frizz reducer, static controller, heat protectant, prevents breakage, disguises split ends, polishes texture, smoothes and hydrates, it’s no wonder there’s a HUGE cult following of both stylists and consumers alike.

Serums are like a facial for the hair, they usually contain silicone and seal the cuticle to make it look healthier, glossier and more controlled.  Oils, whether Argan, Diamond, Macadamia, etc, have a different molecular structure (some with silicone, some without) that’s lighter and more penetrateable with restorative and protective properties. It’s one of the most versatile multi-purpose products on the market.

The key to using oils properly is application - less is more. Place a couple drops in your hands and rub briskly to warm up the oil when applying for even application. Apply from mid shaft to ends on damp hair as a pre-styler, treatment and/or heat protectant. Add to mid shaft and ends after styling for extra luster, polished texture, conditioning and frizz control.  

Tip: Stay away from the scalp area unless the scalp is very dry and in need of treatment. If you’ve gone overboard on application or you want to alter texture further, layer with Redken powder grip 03 mattifying hair powder by squeezing a short burst of powder over the head and letting the product float down on the hair for even application – hair will plump right up!

At shows we like to apply oil to wet hair and then blow dry with hands to create a natural organic texture that’s harder to achieve with a gel, mouse or cream, because they tend to deliver a more matte and stiff finish. It’s also great for photo shoots to tame flyaways around the face and give the hair that extra photo finish polish.  Heck, I actually use Redken Diamond Oil Shatterproof Shine on my elbows to hydrate and mend the dryness - it’s silicone-free and works wonders!! [pagebreak]

I also like to use my Texture iron to expand the hair shaft and then I apply Argan Oil to calm and add polish. And, it makes the sleekest ponytails, because product is applied very evenly and all frizz and flyaways are smoothed to perfection.  

Sleek Hair Oil Ponytail
•    Directional blow dry hair back
•    Starting at the top, take a horseshoe section ear to ear – emulsify oil in hands and apply to section by gathering hair in hands like a ponytail
•    Take another horseshoe section and repeat
•    Repeat until finished at the nape of the neck
•    Working up and back, do the same to the sections that frame the face
•    Smooth back into a ponytail with a Sam Villa Signature Series Styling Brush
•    Glam Option: Apply oil to the ponytail and curl over it for lazy polished waves.

For a sleek polished look like the above model, create a center part and apply Redken Smooth Lock Stay Sleek and directionally blow dry hair back, wrapping underneath with a Sam Villa Signature Series Paddle Brush. At the top of the crown, directionally blow dry hair down, minding the center part. Then, apply Argan Oil and use a flat iron to smooth and direct for ultra-soft movement.

Find an oil you like and keep it close when on the road and at the salon – it will completely change the way you approach finishing…for the better.  Not to mention, it’s a killer retailer – once you go down the list of everything it can do, it’s pretty hard for a client to resist it!! -Sam Villa, Founding Partner of the Sam Villa® brand and Education Artistic Director for Redken 5th Avenue


Photographer: Shalem Mathew
Hair: Geneva Cowen for Sam Villa®  
Makeup: Melanie Camargo

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