The holiday season brings falling leaves, cooler weather, festive spirit... and the biggest change of all, a haircolor paradigm shift! We know you're excited to embrace the season's new shades, so we're sharing with you—as a supplement to our Color Me Mine feature—some extra formulas, step-by-steps and photos to help you complete your clients' color transformations.
onal range. There’s also somewhat less contrast in the highlight opting instead for soft dimension with freehand placement with cooler natural tones overall. Think vanilla, beige, cream and wheat versus overly light white blondes.
Redheads are making a comeback and are rich but not vibrant in tone. These ravishing hues include enhanced red browns and soft mahogany tones, but women are steering clear of copper red this season. Think almost one-dimensional or with barely-there tone-on-tone freehand color placement mostly in the mid-tone range.
We’re also seeing a lot of neutrals in autumn that are being slightly kicked up to chocolate or even warmer golden brown tones during the cooler winter months. There are also beige-y brunettes, warm deeper bases with beige brown over the top. These darker, mainly brown shades have a variety of highs to lows within the same family for tone-on-tone color all over.
See makeovers for:
e debris and coatings from hair and then ENJOY Sulfate-Free Shampoo was introduced to eliminate build up. ENJOY Intensive Reconstructing Spray (IRS) added strength and resilience while Instant Reconstructor provided moisture.
ENJOY Hair Lightener, ENJOY Permanent Crème Color 7BV, and ENJOY Semi-Permanent Color 9BV
ENJOY Semi-Permanent Color4V with panels of equal parts 6R & 4V
ENJOY Semi-Permanent Color4M
day season is definitely a rich red hue, which can be achieved by mixing 1/3 6N, 1/3 7KB and 1/3 7K by Goldwell with 20 volume. I always process Malibu C's Crystal Gel Wellness Treatment under heat prior to every service. I apply color to damp hair, so this five-minute treatment acts as my 'signature service' to purify my canvas by removing color blocking elements and lay a primer down for superior color absorption and retention. Doing so yields consistent color results from scalp to ends and ensures color vibrancy. I also use it at the end of the service without heat to stop the oxidative action of the peroxide and lock in the color so my clients don't have to worry about their color fading."
the damage, instead of just masking it."
f each and every client.
Jodi Beaton, Lisap USA Senior Educator, shares her tips for gorgeous peekaboo highlights:
he head to the hairline by alternating 6/76 and base color through entire head. Base color is 7/66, and 6/6
2. Use Lisap 7/66 and 6/6 with 10-volume developer for base color, Alternating patterns in diagonal sections with Lisap Anti Age 6/76 and your base color. Add Slices of peekaboos highlights using bleach and light with 20 volume to give the sun kissed strawberry tones. Don't forget to pull your base through the ends.
3. Process 30 minutes at room temperature.
4. Shampoo in cooler water, blow dry, and style.
Photo by Heather Heffley Photography.
Keratin Complex's "Blood Orange" look:
30 mL/1 oz. It’s A Blonde Thing Keratin Lightening System powder 30 mL/1 fl. oz. 10 vol. It’s a Blonde Thing Developer
1. Create a 1 1/2-inch wide "head band" section one inch above the hairline that spans in front of the crown of the head.
2. Create a similar, smaller section behind the crown.
3. Use a rat-tail comb to draw a zigzag in those sections, creating triangles that point in alternating directions.
4. In each triangle, alternate application of formulas A, B and C.
5. Apply Formula A (background) from scalp to ends of remaining hair. Tip: Size of each sub-section can be altered to adjust for length.
6. Process 35 minutes.
7. Cleanse and condition with Keratin Complex shampoo and conditioner.
Paul Mitchell Editorial Director Lucie Doughty shares two holiday-appropriate looks that sparkle with vibrant color!
Photographer: Kate Powers
Hair: Lucie Doughty
Make-up: Jenna Anton
Wardrobe: Milka Prica
Kenra' Silver Metallic:
hampoo and condition with Platinum Hydrating system.
STEP 2: Section hair into illustrated partings.
STEP 2: Use Platinum Texturizing Taffy and style with fingers to create added texture.
STEP 3: Work Recovery Polish through hair for a healthy shine.
Matrix's COLORINSIDER offers new Bold Measure shades—perfect for creating this brunette beauty with violet highlights!
TEP BY STEPS:
Create 3 diamond-shaped sections on the top of the head. Each diamond will be a different size, small, medium and large. The largest diamond is closest to the right side. The other two diamonds are staggered as shown. The largest diamond is section 5, the small and medium diamonds are sections 3 and 4.
Next create a diamond on the right and left sides of the head. The diamond will be slightly behind the hairline and is on a diagonal. These are sections 1 and 2.
MASTERY POINT: To achieve more visible contrast, increase the size of the diamond sections. To lessen the contrast, make the diamond sections smaller.
01 : Apply FORMULA A to sections 1, 2, 3 and 4. Cover with foils to keep hair separate.
02 Apply FORMULA B to section 5. Cover with foils to keep hair separate.
03 Apply FORMULA C to all remaining hair. Process for 35 minutes. Rinse, shampoo and condition with Total Results Color Care.
All-Nutrient colorists weigh in on holiday hues!:
With hordes of HD photos and evening updos lending major holiday influence, the point-of-hue for the season is to make hair shine, sparkle and pop. For starters, old, dry ends just won’t do. In addition to trims and deep conditioners that prep the canvas, adding Pure All-Nutrient Oil to every color formula super-boosts essential shine.
When it comes to the shades themselves, think high-impact! Color choices matter: Jewel tones glitter and red is a holiday must-have. But placement is really key. Enhance, emblazon and refine by “coloring the cut” or intended style. For instance, add color flashes and dashes at key focal points, like the ends, bangs and the perimeter. Updos provide the ultimate opportunity to showcase undercolor. Even color-shy clients will love bolder balayage or brighter panels underneath that show off their stuff when hair goes up.
Right on trend for holidays, says All-Nutrient Artistic Team Member Janice Monahan, is shifting balayage highlights from diagonal (too diffused) to vertical. Now, they’re bold enough to be seen even when hair is super curly. What else sizzles: Convertible color that goes from attention-getting red to more subdued brunette with a simple shift of the part.
Finally, colorists can celebrate serendipity this year: The trend for fall is bolder and more obvious anyway, so you have to do is add the extra sizzle and shine. To that end, seal every hue you do with Keratint Clear Glaze for dazzling, happy holidays.
strong>Highlights:2 scoops Blue Bleach + 1½ oz. 20-volume developer
Lowlights:2 oz. All-Nutrient 6G + 2 oz. 20-volume developer
How-To: Part off the top with a horseshoe parting that starts at eyebrow level and moves around the head to the opposite side. Start at the bottom. Working from the nape up and side to side, take ½-inch vertical partings to create all-over the balayage highlights. Apply the lightening formula with gloved hands, smoothing it on evenly. Change to 1-inch partings at the occipital. When you reach eyebrow level, release the top. Now, take 2-inch vertical pieces and alternate the highlight and lowlight formulas. When the application is completed, process for 45 minutes, shampoo and rinse. Because there was no previous color (just sun-lightened pieces), the formerly dull blonde becomes a clear, shiny shade with no yellow undertones. The 6G lowlights add depth, 14k shine and color contrast.
Style: For a freeform updo, scrunch hair dry, smooth the fringe and create a loose side pony. Create a twisted knot, pin-up pieces and iron curl the ends.Add a single braid that gets tucked into the knot. When the hair is worn down in curls, the vertical balayage placement makes highlights pop even more.
Lakmé National Director of Education Arda Itez shares a before-and-after for a warm violet-red:
Just because summer is over doesn’t mean your clients are over their highlight services. By adjusting the tone and placement of your highlights with a balayage technique, says Papanikolas, it’s easy to transition clients from bright summer color to softer, subtler effects for fall.
p>1. Assess the cut. If the hair is heavily layered, apply more highlights; if it’s one-length, fewer highlights will be necessary.
2. Mix Joico Verolight On/Off-Scalp Lightening Powder + 40-volume developer to the consistency of yogurt. The lightener should be easy to spread, and because the hair is left uncovered, 40-volume developer is necessary for a sufficient amount of lift.
3. Create a u-shaped section from each recession point, extending to the crown. Secure the top section above the parting. Highlights will be applied beneath the parting, then a second parting will be created an inch or so up from the first, and a second set of highlights will be applied.
4. Create a two inch section off of the u-shaped parting in the back. With lightener on the brush, place the brush in the center of the section. Apply the heaviest amount of lightener on the surface of the section from the center through to the ends. Lightly feather the section above the center, toward the roots. The result will be a v-shaped application on the surface of the section.
5. Continue applying lightener in this manner to sections along the parting, working to the face on each side. When working around the face-frame area, apply the lightener delicately but deliberately. Keep in mind that this is the section that the client will be most particular about in the final result.
6. Release the next section and repeat the application from the center to each side.
7. Process, rinse, shampoo, condition and style the hair.
Tracey Devine, Global Ambassador for Affinage, talks pastels!
k-brushed into the hair to give it a really soft pastel finish. I am really loving the pastel trend still but this season it has been taken a step further from previous seasons and has a slightly neon feel to it, making it far edgier than just pastel tones.
"You can tone this look down in the salon by strategically placing customised colour in underneath sections and therefore offering clients something they could not otherwise create at home. It’s all about offering clients a look that only their hairdresser can create and that that they can’t buy in the shop.”
t series) with 15-volume developer," says Kaytaz."