Get a head start on fall makeup trends! This year's Dolores Cortes "Jungle Punk" runway in Miami used Whip Hand Cosmetics. The wild cat-like makeup featured a nude lip with a new smokey eye technique! Whip Hand Lead Makeup Artist Victor Amos gave us the full backstage view and explained how he designed the flawless complexion, contoured cheeks, subtle pout, dramatic eyes, and bronzed legs.
Click through for each of Amos' six makeup how-tos to recreate the complete look from head to toe. »
We started by prepping the skin with Ctrl+Alt+Delete Makeup Remover to clean the skin. Many of the models came in with makeup from previous shows, so it was important to remove the makeup without dehydrating the skin, which is why I used this amazing cleanser.
We then used the Give Good Face Rosewater Tonic and Skin Toner to refresh and moisturize the skin.
We finished off the skin prep by applying a thin layer of Set The Stage Makeup Primer all over the face, so that the foundation would apply smoothly, and survive the humidity, sweat, and bright lights.
I really wanted flawless skin for this look. We are used to the traditional punk look being porcelain and pale skin, but I wanted to evolve the look so that it felt more “Miami-ish." We accomplished this by using a lightweight, water-based liquid foundation all over the skin to even the complexion, and used concealer only where needed. We finished off the skin with a light dusting of translucent powder to lock the foundation into place.
To help bring shape and warmth to the face, we heavily contoured the cheeks with Cheek Flash Loose Blush in “Launch.” I almost wanted the cheeks to look sunburnt, like a character from ‘Mad-Max” of Thunderdome. After contouring the cheeks, we used what was left on the brush and dusted it onto the temples, around the hairline, and around the jawline for structure.
This was the focus of the look. I wanted the eyes to look narrow and sultry... very much like a cheetah’s eyes. To get the eye pitch-black, I patted on “Axe Handle” Crème Eyeshadow until the coverage was opaque, and the shape of the eye was exaggerated into a wing.
I then used my finger to lightly blend the edges of the shadow out so that it didn’t look too harsh. I set the cream with a matte black eyeshadow for longevity.
Next, we used the “Axe Handle” Crème Eyeshadow on the water-line of the eye to further darken it, and to give the eye its feline allure.
I finished off the eye by dampening a fluffy brush and applying “Glow” Pure Pigment Loose Eyeshadow, wet, to the tear duct. Using the loose pigment eyeshadow wet intensified the color and gave it an almost metallic quality. This was to give the eye a pop of light so that the look would not come across too dark and Goth.
The mouth was very simple. I used the Lip Hit Long-Wear Lip Veneer in “Hooked” and dabbed it onto the lips with my finger. Again, I wanted the look to be carefree, so I skipped lip liner or the use of a lip brush.
The Lip Hit Lip Veneers are completely opaque glosses, so covering the natural color of the model’s lips was a breeze.
This was the really exciting part! Whip Hand debuted a brand new body illuminator for Fashion Week Swim called Runway Legs. This was a prototype that the Makeup Team was able to test drive under real runway conditions in Miami.
The verdict: This dry oil is amazing. It gives the body a healthy golden glow, while leaving behind a light, but refreshing coconut scent without an oily residue.
We rubbed this on the model’s legs, arms, stomach, and chest to give them a just-off-the-beach shine and to bring out definition. It’s not bronzer, but rather a sheer Illuminator, so it’s seasonless and doesn’t stain. I can see this being a product that you could use all year round whenever you are showing some shoulders, legs or bare skin. --Victor Amos, Whip Hand Lead Makeup Artist
[Images and tips courtesy of Whip Hand Cosmetics, Chic Execs PR]