Dow Corning, a global leader in silicones, silicon-based technology and innovation, introduced here at the New York Society of Cosmetic Chemists (NYSCC) Suppliers’ Day 2013 its Dow Corning ES-5300 Formulation Aid, a new benefits-rich water-in-oil silicone emulsifier. Developed to give formulators greater flexibility and choice, the new Dow Corning technology delivers next-generation aesthetics and performance for liquid and cream foundation and sunscreen while maintaining the high stability needed to avoid ingredient separation.
Dow Corning ES-5300 Formulation Aid provides excellent oil phase flexibility that can enhance the formulation stability of emulsions, even when a wide variety of ingredients and different ratios of cosmetic oils are incorporated. Additionally, this new low-odor material enables the development of highly stable emulsions while keeping viscosity low and provides a light feel with low tackiness for improved sensory performance. It also helps pigment dispersion for optimal foundation coverage.
“Global cosmetics industry demand for newer and better materials that can provide the multiple high-end benefits consumers want in their cream foundation and sun screen has never been greater,” said Stewart Long, global Skin Care market leader, Beauty Care at Dow Corning. “To meet this demand, formulations are becoming more complex and sophisticated, but each ingredient added to a formulation can have drawbacks that affect the stability of the end product. Dow Corning ES-5300 has been designed to specifically address this need – not only as a proven solution that provides exceptional formulation stability, but also as one that delivers overall improved performance and aesthetics.”
Dow Corning ES-5300 Formulation Aid delivers higher emulsification capability through smaller particle size. Compared to competitive silicone products, it enables the development of emulsions with a combination of lower viscosity, which can improve the texture and feel of the end product, and high stability. Stability is maintained under varying temperature conditions, and for a broad range of silicone/oil ratios. Low viscosity provided by the new formulation aid also translates into a lighter feel and lower tackiness, both before and after absorption, for emulsions ranging from milky lotions to thick creams.
Dow Corning ES-5300 Formulation Aid can be used as a powder and pigment dispersing aid in foundations, helping to ensure even color tone on the skin. In sunscreens, these excellent dispersant properties result in low residue. Another benefit for sun care products is the emulsifier’s ability to make stable systems with high levels of physical and organic sunscreens for high in-vitro SPF performance.
For even greater formulation flexibility, Dow Corning ES-5300 Formulation Aid allows for cold or hot processing. From an environmental standpoint, the ability to be cold processed at room temperature also helps to save energy.
Dow Corning also introduced the new PH-1560 Glossy Fluid. This advanced silicone fluid combines a high refractive index and high viscosity for lip gloss and lipstick, enabling formulators to meet the three top worldwide consumer demands for performance-rich lip color cosmetics. These include high shine, a plumped appearance and long-lasting durability. Further, unlike traditional materials such as polyisobutene (PIB), which can be tacky and heavy, the new Dow Corning fluid provides an exceptionally pleasant sensory experience in premium lip products.
“Consumers across the globe are increasingly calling for beauty care products that can do more to enhance their appearance, attractiveness and style, and beautifying the lips is a very important part of this,” said Stewart Long, global Skin Care market leader, Beauty Care at Dow Corning. “Products that make the lips look fuller and give them a long-lasting shine are particularly in style, and our new Dow Corning PH-1560 Glossy Fluid provides the unique pairing of qualities needed to deliver the appearance consumers want. In addition, this new product minimizes the appearance of fine lines around the lips and enhances shine and color vibrancy.”
New Dow Corning PH-1560 Glossy Fluid is a high-phenyl-content silicone fluid that is colorless in appearance. Compared to low- and high-viscosity PIB and other phenyl silicones, it has a unique combination of high viscosity (10,000 mm2/sec) and high refractive index (1.58 at 25°C), maintaining a glossy layer on the lips and providing the fuller, shinier appearance desired by consumers. It also improves resistance to transfer, reducing the need for frequent reapplication. High reflectivity contributes to a wet look and color intensity. Lip products containing the new Dow Corning fluid are easy to apply and provide a smooth feel without the stickiness typically associated with organic oils.
Finally, Dow Corning announced two new skin care programs for Sun Protection and Skin Brightening featuring the company’s wide range of specialty silicone products and silicone- based formulations. Both new programs have been developed to give customers the high- performance silicone ingredients they require to meet growing consumer demand for improved anti-aging beauty care products. According to Dow Corning, demand is expected to grow even more as a number of emerging and accelerating global trends continue to expand the beauty care industry.
“Several important macro trends are driving the increased use of advanced silicone technologies in anti-aging skin care products,” said Stewart Long, global Skin Care market leader, Beauty Care at Dow Corning. “An aging worldwide population, cultural preferences and health concerns are creating consumer demand for a combination of proven performance and sensory appeal – which perfectly describes Dow Corning’s beauty care silicones portfolio. To help customers meet this demand, our new programs offer a broad and expanding selection of skin care products, including convenient full formulations that combine superior performance properties with excellent aesthetics vs. competitive materials.”
As part of Dow Corning’s new Sun Protection program, the company announced that its sun protection specialty silicone products have been extensively and rigorously retested to address customer requirements for performance validation. The test methods use in-vitro SPF and UVAPF testing, and in vitro wash-off resistance testing and are based on ISO 24443 standards.
Key products within the Sun Protection program that showed superior SPF/UVAPF performance include Dow Corning 5562 Carbinol Fluid, a low-viscosity fluid for sunscreens offering broad compatibility with polar and non-polar solvents; Dow Corning 556 Cosmetic Grade Fluid, a polyphenylmethylsiloxane for suntan lotions that provides non-oily, easy-to-spread emolliency and a smooth, non-sticky film that helps repel sand; and Dow Corning MQ-1640 Flake Resin, a flexible film former for sunscreens that also provides wash-off resistance.
Testing also showed that all water-in-oil formulations using Dow Corning silicone polyether- based emulsifiers demonstrated good wash-off resistance.
Based on retesting findings, the company now offers formulators a revised selection guide with technologies suitable for oil-in-water and water-in-oil formulations to boost SPF and water- resistance performance.
Within Dow Corning’s Skin Brightening program, the company is highlighting its Bright Light Serum, a stabilized anhydrous silicone-and-glycerine serum containing 5 percent vitamin C. Pure vitamin C is a well-known, powerful skin brightener, but traditionally has been very difficult to formulate due to its instability. Bright Light Serum resolves this issue, provides excellent stability and has been proven to significantly reduce melanin in skin up to three times more effectively than competitive brands. Further, testing showed that the product also remains stable after one month in a 50oC oven, where a leading commercially available formulation changed color from oxidation of the vitamin C content.
This glycerine-in-silicone serum is one of five full formulations ready for the marketplace. Dow Corning’s other full skin brightening formulations include a night cream, a day cream, a low-viscosity blemish balm (BB) cream and a slightly translucent toner, all tested with Asian consumers for their appeal and appropriateness for these important markets.