Texture Expert: Tips from the Industry's Curl Masters

Curly girls form a large portion of your client demographic—don't miss your chance to be a valuable beauty resource for them!

top products and more. Read on to learn the essentials of working with curls!

 

[Image: The Image Bank/DreamPictures]

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Milady

Diane Da Costa, educator in Milady's Perspectives in Hair Design Video Series, imparts two crucial tips:

curly hair type. In approaching clients with curly hair type, there are several things to remember, decide and execute.

When you’re cutting curly textured hair it’s important to understand the eight universal curl patterns: straight to slight waves, loose waves, wavy, curly, very curly, coily, tight coils, and zig-zag coils.

When you apply the fundamental cutting techniques with the curly patterns, the approach to cutting textured hair—whether wet or curly—becomes very easy.
 
#2. It’s important to cut very curly, frizzy-textured hair dry and not wet; this will help you to see the angles and lines and to avoid frizzy and voluminous hair while cutting.


Learn more when you purchase Perspectives in Hair Design: Cutting Curly-Textured Hair with Diane Da Costa! 
Now available at www.miladyednet.com

Bio: Diane Da Costa is a curly textured expert and author of multiple books on how to cut curly hair. With over 25 years in the beauty business, Diane has brought innovative curly styles to the forefront of today's multi-textured hair movement. Her work has been featured in The New York Times, Ebony, Essence, French Vogue, InStyle, O Magazine and more. Diane has also worked with celebrities such as Lenny Kravitz, Blair Underwood, S. Epatha Merkerson. She is founder and principal executive of Beautiful Fund, LLC. and held the position of Creative Consultant, Multi-Textured Expert & Educator at MIZANI.

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Faatemah Ampey, editorial stylist and NAHA winner:

their hair. What do they love most about their hair and what do they hate? These questions will help you determine the appropriate silhouette for your cut.

Curly hair lends itself to more deconstructed looks. Blunt cuts should be avoided. The focus should not be cutting; approach it like sculpting. Build a shape that will flatter the client's facial structure. Curly hair doesn't need to be cut very often unless it is shot. I recommend every 10-12 weeks for my guest.

Cutting solutions for every curl:
Short hair - Avoid razors cuts, as this can exaggerate frizz. For short hair, I'd definitely suggest, the carve n' slicing method. Notching and cutting hair at an angle is recommended.
Medium length hair - You really want remove the weight of the hair, the body of the hair shifted up. When texturizing curly hair, it's best to go mid shaft to deep. The ends need to remain intact as not to look to transparent.
Long hair - This client doesn't mind seeing a little bit of fullness toward the ends. The goal with this length should be to keep the shape from looking too boxy or bottom heavy.

When cutting curly hair, it's beautiful to do some face-framing layers, something that's soft around the face, especially if the client pulls their hair back a lot. It's nice when a couple little pieces fall down here and there. Beware of cutting layers too short, this can make the clients curls look too expansive and puffy. A good guideline is to start layers no shorter than client and angle down all around the head.

Dry cutting allows the stylist to see exactly how the cut will look; if the hair is wet, they may underestimate the amount of spring a client’s curl has. Shrinkage is a huge factor with curly hair. With my guest, I start with a dry cut to introduce shape. Then, we shampoo, clean up lines in perimeter while hair is wet.

"Hair is a fabric, not a race. Every color, cut or style must be tailor made." ~Faatemah

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Tippi Shorter - Aveda Global Artistic Director, Textured Hair:

nditioning and cutting.
2. If hair has a strong texture, I leave a bit of conditioner in the hair when cutting for control of hair.
3. I prefer to cut hair in its textured state unless the guest prefers to wear their hair straight.

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Morgan Willhite, Creative Director at Ouidad, answers stylists' top curl queries:

bsp;     Your consultation is what's most important. You need to understand the client and their past hair struggles, and set realistic goals that can be achieved based on the client's individual hair needs. Build trust by approaching the hair with "less is more" and remember a small shaping can alter the style. You can always cut more if needed.
 
What are the top products from the Ouidad collection that should be used?
·         The foundation product to our brand is the Ouidad 12 minute deep treatment. We like to call it "The hair multivitamin." The treatment internally hydrates the hair insuring the strength and integrity of the hair. As healthy hair is easy hair.
·          The Ouidad Climate Control Heat & Humidity Gel is our number 1 styling product. It's a water-based product, that would build up on the hair. It's an anti-humectant that shields and protect the hair from the humidity. It also dries with a soft finish, so that when applied properly, you achieve 2-3 days of longevity! That's a dream!
 
What are some things to look out for, regarding curl pattern and hair type?
·         Analyze the hair in sections. As different areas of the head can alter in texture and curl pattern. Mapping out the areas in the head will give you a clear indication as to what haircut is suitable for that individual client. No two curly heads are alike.
 
What are some mistakes stylists make when cutting curly hair?
·         I think the biggest issue is not considering the shrinkage that takes place when cutting the length. Follow the "less is more" approach. Also cutting blunt layers, causes horizontal lines... Resulting in shelf layers, aka "the pyramid effect".... A curly head's worst nightmare!

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Jacquelyn Walent, Senior Stylist and Educator at Devachan Salon:

3. Frizz is not a curl type, it is a curl lacking moisture.

4. Knowing where a curl grows from and then where it lives is the first step in giving a great curly haircut.

5.  It is very important to see hair dry in its most natural state.  Once curls are wet, they are no longer in their natural form. 

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Robert Nieves, Senior Stylist and Educator, Devachan Salon:

2. Training your eye to see the different textures and curl patterns is key in giving a great dry cut.

3. Holding the section of hair that you're about to cut in the right position and understanding what it will do after is important. Practice makes perfect!

4. Never cut too much off. You are better off with undercutting than over-cutting. The biggest complaint is taking too much length off.

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In honor of Eufora’s new Curl ’n products, here are some tips for curly hair from Eufora educator, Dana Hodges.

ough up the cuticle layer, causing more frizz and collapsing the curl. The Cleansing Cream is a non-lathering cleanser for exactly this reason!

  -The infamous scrunch look is not desired by many but ends up being the result. No one with natural curls should look like they were left out in the rain! Eufora Curl ’n Forming Cream leaves hair soft and bouncy.

  -Not all curls are equal! Growth patterns and texture are different all over the head but especially with curls. Use the Eufora Curl ’n Defining Solution to enhance curl where needed as well as taming frizz elsewhere.

  -Curls need moisture! LOTS of moisture. The high ingredient quality and different oils in the Eufora Curl'n products restore moisture leaving curly hair vibrant and luxurious.

  -Product build up with cause curls to loosen or flatten out. This will happen with any hair type of course, but when you notice your curls just aren't springing up like normal make sure to check for waxes and silicones on the ingredient list of your current product regimen. (None of which Eufora Curl 'n contains).

  -Layering products create a great effect for curls. For example, start with a leave in conditioner to balance the hair's moisture and eliminate frizz then go to a defining product to add fullness and movement. Rather than cocktailing the two together each product serves a purpose!

  -Work with what you have! You can spend more time curling straight hair or straightening curly hair than just embracing what is natural. Whether it be a slight wave or a tight spiral curl the Eufora Curl 'n products cater to all!

  -Brushing curly hair is NOT necessary. Use the microfiber towels, included with Eufora Curl 'n kits, to blot dry and continue to apply product.

  -Just because you don't notice the length doesn't mean you should keep pushing off a haircut! Curly hair can be deceiving because you don't notice the growth until that once in a blue moon blowout, but the dead ends are still there and need to come off. This will bring back shape and life to the style.