Exclusive! The Matrix brand’s brightest stars share inspiration behind the new Logics Cityscapes compilation.
The latest collection from Logics, "Cityscapes", found four Matrix artists (Chrystofer Benson, Cares Mills, Dan Csicsai and Lenny Strand) partnering with four emerging colorists (Kristen Drosos, Cassandra Lynn Thompson Cate Mastrianni and Heidi Rae Wetzel) from Logics salons to conjure this year’s biggest color and style trends, brought to life through their unique interpretations of four of the world’s most vibrant cities: Mumbai, Prague, San Francisco and Tokyo. Launchpad gathered the Matrix artists for an exclusive discussion on the driving forces behind their creative concept for the shoot.
In your day to day salon life, how do you source your creativity?
Dan Csicsai “The amazing thing about our profession is that we have the opportunity to create and to inspire. Creativity may be derived from myriad sources, from an ad in a magazine, to the color of the sunset, to the drawing of a five-year-old child.”
Chrystofer Benson “I totally agree. Three basic elements get me inspired: colors, textures and shapes. Using these three components, an artist can basically take anything and create a masterpiece. Ripples on a dress sleeve can be translated into cascading waves in hair. The possibilities are endless.”
Cares Mills “That’s what I love about Logics. It’s an artist’s palette. And I have to use my creativity to make the colors I want come to life. If I see burnt sienna orange color on a dress, Logics gives me the power to create that same shade on strands using haircolor. It’s a tool that shows my capabilities as an artist and a professional. It gives me my pizazz and spice!”
What was your approach to brainstorming the Logics "Cityscapes" trends?
Lenny Strand “These were such fun trends to create because we got to brainstorm the concept in advance with four emerging colorists from Logics salons. We had a two-day trend planning session where we looked at different elements that we all source as inspiration. We all found trending cities to be epicenters of creativity.”
Mills “The trend planning session was a great collaboration and played a successful role in creating the Logics 'Cityscapes' trends. The cities we chose were narrowed down based on different contemporary components that we believe make each of these cities unique. In planning, we found images of different architecture, fabrics and street fashion to get an idea of the city’s aesthetic.”
Benson “Yes, after we pulled pictures from the cities, we did swatches of different color groups that we found fit our idea of what we would like to see as a representation for each city. Having swatches and styles already conceptualized, once we got together for the shoot, we already had our foundation to finesse. It was awesome to have eight amazing artists together to collaborate on 'Cityscapes'.”
Inspo: Tokyo
“Edgy street styles and vibrant colors make fashion our biggest inspiration from Tokyo,” says Kristen Drosos of iidentity Salon in Tulsa, Oklahoma. “Dimensional colors and geometric patterns are seen from the locals’ everyday wear to formalwear. These bold colors, which also offer more subtle wearability, inspired the multifaceted peekaboo hair shades for our final look.”
FORMULAS
Lightener Formula: 2 scoops Light Master & 2 oz. 30 Volume MATRIX Cream Developer & BOND Ultim8 Step 1 Amplifier
Base Formula: Equal parts Colorcremes 3B & Primary Blue Concentrate & 10 Volume MATRIX Cream Developer & BOND Ultim8 Step 1 Amplifier
Blue Formula: Equal parts Primary Blue Concentrate & 10 Volume MATRIX Cream Developer & BOND Ultim8 Step 1
Yellow Formula: Equal parts Primary Yellow Concentrate & 10 Volume MATRIX Cream Developer & BOND Ultim8 Step 1
Red Formula: 1 oz. Colorcremes 6R & 1⁄2 oz. Red Primary Concentrate & 1 1⁄2 oz. 10 Volume MATRIX Cream Developer & BOND Ultim8 Step 1
COLORINSIDER ALTERNATE FORMULAS
Lightener Formula: One sachet of LightInsider Lightening Booster Powder & 3 oz. 30 Volume ColorInsider Oil-Cream Developer & one tube LightInsider Lightening Conditioning Cream & BOND Ultim8 Step 1
Base Formula: Equal parts ColorInsider 2AA (2.11) & 4AA (4.11) & 5 inches Blue Concentrate & 10 Volume ColorInsider Oil-Cream Developer & BOND Ultim8 Step 1
Blue Formula: 1 oz. ColorInsider 10N (10.0) & 5 inches Blue Concentrate & 1 oz. 10 Volume ColorInsider Oil-Cream Developer & BOND Ultim8 Step 1
Yellow Formula: 1 oz. ColorInsider 10N (10.0) & 5 inches Yellow Concentrate & 1 oz. 10 Volume ColorInsider Oil-Cream Developer & BOND Ultim8 Step 1
Red Formula: 1 oz. ColorInsider 6R (6.6) & 5 inches Red Concentrate & 1 oz. 10 Volume ColorInsider Oil-Cream Developer & BOND Ultim8 Step 1
SECTIONING
Working off of the natural part create a large triangle on one side and a smaller on the opposite side as shown, secure for control.
STEP 1
Working in the triangle sections, take 1/8 inch slice lay on foil, apply LIGHTENER FORMULA staying 1⁄2 inch off scalp through the ends. Continue to take back-to-back slices until section complete, repeat in the other triangle.
MASTERY POINT: Applying the LIGHTENER FORMULA in the triangle sections in foil first will allow this area to process first and lighten more.
STEP 2
Next apply LIGHTENER FORMULA from 1⁄2 inch away from scalp to ends to all remaining hair, process to gold. Rinse thoroughly, cleanse and lightly mist with Total Results Pro Solutionist Instacure and dry hair.
Re-section into original sections.
STEP 3
Starting in the bottom of the larger triangle, take 1/8 inch slice, lay on foil, apply the BASE FORMULA to scalp area and feather out about 1⁄2 inch, then apply the BLUE FORMULA from the mid-lengths through the ends. Use a dry brushand vertical feathering motion to diffuse and melt the two colors together. Repeat this application for 3 back-to-back foils. The next 3 back-to-back foils, apply BASE FORMULA melt into BLUE FORMULA into RED FORMULA then into YELLOW FORMULA. Next 3 are BASE FORMULA into RED FORMULA into YELLOW FORMULA. Finish the last foil with BASE FORMULA into YELLOW FORMULA through to the ends. Repeat formula order in smaller triangle section on opposite side using single back to back slices.
STEP 4
Apply the BASE FORMULA from scalp through to the ends and all remaining hair outside of the foils and process accordingly.
Rinse thoroughly and apply BOND Ultim8 Step 2 Sealer process for 10 minutes. Rinse, cleanse and condition with Total Results Color Obsessed Shampoo and Conditioner.
Inspo: Mumbai
“The rich colors and intricate textures found in Mumbai play a huge role in this look,” notes Cassandra Thompson of Simonson’s Salon & Spa in Plymouth, Minnesota. “We captured these components by styling the hair into an intricate ‘woven basket’ to frame panels of saturated color.”
FORMULAS
Lightener Formula: 1 tube Gel Lightener & 4 oz. 20 Volume MATRIX Cream Developer & 3 scoops Logics Light Reactions Powder & BOND Ultim8 Step 1
Formula A: 2 oz. Colorcremes 3RV & 1⁄2 oz. Primary Blue Concentrate & 2 oz. 20 Volume MATRIX Cream Developer & BOND Ultim8 Step 1
Formula B: 2 oz. Colorcremes 4RV & 2 oz. 20 Volume MATRIX Cream Developer & BOND Ultim8 Step 1
Formula C: 3 oz. Primary Yellow Concentrate & 1⁄2 oz. Primary Red Concentrate & 3 1⁄2 oz. 10 Volume MATRIX Cream Developer & BOND Ultim8 Step 1
COLORINSIDER ALTERNATE FORMULAS
Lightener Formula: One sachet of LightInsider Lightening Booster Powder & 3 oz.
30 Volume ColorInsider Oil-Cream Developer & one tube of Lightening Conditioning Cream & BOND Ultim8 Step 1
Formula A: 2 oz. ColorInsider 3VR (3.26) & 2 oz. 20 Volume ColorInsider Oil-Cream Developer & BOND Ultim8 Step 1
Formula B: 2 oz. ColorInsider 4RV+ (4.62+) & 2 oz. 20 Volume ColorInsider Oil-Cream Developer & BOND Ultim8 Step 1
Formula C: 1 oz. ColorInsider Clear & 4 inches Orange Concentrate & 1 inch Yellow Concentrate & 1 oz. 10 Volume ColorInsider Oil-Cream Developer & BOND Ultim8 Step 1
SECTIONING
On dry hair create a parting that starts above the left eye and extends on a diagonal to the center nape. Create another diagonal parting from the origin that travels on a diagonal back to the center nape, creating an off-center “eye” shape section as shown. Clip and secure top and remaining side sections.
STEP 1
Release top section. Starting at the front of the right side, create a narrow section parallel to the parting and separate out a two strand macro-weave and place on foil. Apply LIGHTENER FORMULA, off the scalp through to the ends, using side brushing technique. Next, skip 3 inches adjacent to the macro-weave and repeat macro-weave and application until reaching the bottom of section.
STEP 2
Working parallel and up the head, leave 1⁄2 inch of hair out in between sub-sections. Next, in a bricklay pattern, create a 3 strand macro-weave and place on foil. Apply LIGHTENER FORMULA, off the scalp through to the ends, using side brushing technique. Next, skip 3 inches adjacent to the macro- weave and repeat macro-weave and application until reaching the bottom of section. Continue working up the right side until reaching the top center and repeat on the other side.
STEP 3
Release side sections. Apply FORMULA A in between foils from the scalp to approximately 3 inches down mid-lengths and repeat through side sections. Complete entire base application.
STEP 4
Apply FORMULA B from mid-lengths through the ends by using a side brushing technique and use a dry brush to “melt” where the two formulas meet to diffuse any harsh lines of demarcation.
MASTERY POINT: Your hands are another great tool that can help aid in ensuring saturation when color melting.
Process accordingly. Rinse FORMULAS A and B first thoroughly, then remove foils and rinse Lightener Formula, towel dry.
STEP 5
Select pre-lightened strands and place on foil, apply FORMULA C from mid-lengths through ends. Process accordingly. Next, apply BOND Ultim8 Step 2 Sealer for 10 minutes. Rinse thoroughly then cleanse and condition with Total Results Color Obsessed Shampoo and Conditioner.
Inspo: Prague
“Prague is a juxtaposition of sophistication and old world charm,” enthuses Cate Mastrianni of Hair in Fairfield, Connecticut. “We replicated this unique dichotomy by using rosy browns and layering warm honeys into the model’s hair.”
FORMULAS
FORMULA A: 1 oz. Colorcremes 8NN & 1 oz. 4RV & 1⁄2 oz. 6B & 1⁄4 oz. Primary Red Concentrate & 2 3⁄4 oz. 20 Volume MATRIX Cream Developer & BOND Ultim8 Step 1
FORMULAB:1oz.Colorcremes8NN&1oz.4RV&1⁄2oz.6B&21⁄2oz. 20 Volume MATRIX Cream Developer & BOND Ultim8 Step 1
FORMULA C: 2 scoops Light Master & 2 oz. 40 Volume MATRIX Cream Developer & BOND Ultim8 Step 1
FORMULA D: Equal parts Primary Yellow Concentrate & 10 Volume MATRIX Cream Developer & BOND Ultim8 Step 1
FORMULA E: Equal parts Primary Yellow Concentrate & Primary Red Concentrate & 10 Volume MATRIX Cream Developer & BOND Ultim8 Step 1
COLORINSIDER ALTERNATE FORMULAS
FORMULA A: 1 oz. ColorInsider 6N (6.0) & 1 oz. 6RV+ (6.62+) & 1⁄2 oz. 6AA (6.11) &
5 inches Red Concentrate & 2 1⁄2 oz. 20 Volume ColorInsider Oil-Cream Developer & BOND Ultim8 Step 1
FORMULA B: 1 oz. ColorInsider 6N (6.0) & 1 oz. 6RV+ (6.62+) & 1⁄2 oz. 6AA (6.11) & 2 1⁄2 oz. Volume ColorInsider Oil-Cream Developer & BOND Ultim8 Step 1
FORMULA C: One sachet of LightInsider Lightening Booster Powder & 3 oz. 30 Volume ColorInsider Oil-Cream Developer & one tube LightInsider Lightening Conditioning Cream & BOND Ultim8 Step 1
FORMULA D: 1 oz. ColorInsider Clear & 5 inches Yellow Concentrate & 1 oz. 10 Volume ColorInsider Oil-Cream Developer & BOND Ultim8 Step 1
FORMULA E: 1 oz. ColorInsider Clear & 2.5 inches Yellow Concentrate & 2.5 inches Red Concentrate & 1 oz. 10 Volume ColorInsider Oil-Cream Developer & BOND Ultim8 Step 1
STEP 1
To warm up the natural color apply FORMULA A to the scalp area and immediately apply FORMULA B to the mid-lengths and thorough the ends, process accordingly, rinse and dry hair.
STEP 2
Strategically place and determine where a pop of color or lightness is desired by selecting a diagonal parting, clipping hair away for control. Paint FORMULA C several inches away from scalp in a “V” shape. Use balayage board to fully saturate the ends. Place on foil and fold the sides vertically to secure. Continue to strategically select hair to accent facial features. For a mosaic pattern, work in freeform sections in the fringe area, applying horizontal bands of lightener within foil creating rectangles in the middle of the hair strands. Using approximately 8-12 foils, throughout the fringe, sides and create longer pieces at the nape. Process until to level of lightness is achieved or up to 50 minutes.
MASTERY POINT: Avoid placing foils in the crown area to maintain depth.
STEP 3
Rinse thoroughly and dry completely.
Working in the nape and side sections select lightened hair, place on foil and apply FORMULA D to the ends. Next, alternate FORMULA D and FORMULA E on the fringe pieces. Process accordingly. Rinse thoroughly and apply BOND Ultim8 Step 2 sealer for 10 minutes. Rinse, cleanse and condition with Total Results Color Obsessed Shampoo and Conditioner.
Inspo: San Francisco
“As a hub for start-ups and tech companies, San Francisco is a hot contemporary city,” explains Heidi Rae Wetzel of Rocco Altobelli Salon in Edina, Minnesota. “On-trend blushes, vibrant yellows and our innovative looping technique really echo this way of life through color.”
FORMULAS
Pre-lightening Formula: Double Process, Virgin Application
Lightener Formula A: 2 scoops Light Master & 2 oz. 20 Volume MATRIX Cream
Developer & BOND Ultim8 Step 1
Lightener Formula B: 2 scoops Light Master & 2 oz. 30 Volume Matrix Cream Developer & BOND Ultim8 Step 1
FORMULA A: 2 oz. Imprints Clear & 2 inches Primary Red Concentrate & 2 oz. 10 Volume MATRIX Cream Developer & BOND Ultim8 Step 1
FORMULA B: Equal parts Primary Yellow Concentrate & 10 Volume MATRIX Cream
Developer & BOND Ultim8 Step 1
FORMULA C: 1⁄2 oz. Primary Yellow Concentrate & 1⁄2 oz. Primary Red Concentrate & 1⁄2 oz.
Clear & 1 1⁄2 oz. 10 Volume MATRIX Cream Developer & BOND Ultim8 Step 1
COLORINSIDER ALTERNATE FORMULAS
Scalp: One sachet of LightInsider Lightening Booster Powder & 3 oz. 20 Volume ColorInsider Oil-Cream Developer & one tube LightInsider Lightening Conditioning Cream & BOND Ultim8 Step 1
Mid-Lengths through Ends: One sachet of LightInsider Lightening Booster Powder & 3 oz. 30 Volume ColorInsider Oil-Cream Developer & one tube LightInsider Lightening Conditioning Cream & BOND Ultim8 Step 1
FORMULA A: 2 oz. ColorInsider Clear & 3 inches Red Concentrate & 1 inch Blue Concentrate & 2 oz. 10 Volume ColorInsider Oil-Cream Developer & BOND Ultim8 Step 1
FORMULA B: 1 oz. ColorInsider Clear & 5 inches Yellow Concentrate & 1 oz. 10 Volume ColorInsider Oil-Cream Developer & BOND Ultim8 Step 1
FORMULA C: 2 oz. ColorInsider Clear & 2.5 inches Yellow Concentrate & 2.5 inches Red Concentrate & 2 oz. 10 Volume ColorInsider Oil-Cream Developer & BOND Ultim8 Step 1
SECTIONING
Create quad sectioning on dry hair.
STEP 1
Use a 4-quad sectioning and 1⁄2 inch sub-sections. Apply LIGHTENER FORMULA B 1⁄2 inch away from scalp and pulling through mid-lengths and ends. Process until 2/3rds of desired lightness is achieved. Next, apply LIGHTENER FORMULA A to scalp area, process accordingly up to 50 minutes at room temperature, cleanse lightly and dry.
STEP 2
Create a horseshoe-shaped section around parietal ridge, secure for control. Beginning near face, take a 1⁄2 inch vertical sub-section, pinch to create a loop about half way down the sub-section. Use finger as base to wrap elastic. Continue to work towards center back, each time slightly alternating the placement of loop to create a wave pattern. Repeat on the opposite side.
MASTERY POINT: Use the loop to emphasize the eye, cheekbone, and or jaw line.
STEP 3
Release horseshoe-shaped section. Work off desired parting, repeat in same manner as Step 2 to create a second layer of loops. If length allows, create a second set of loops on the sub-sections near the ends.
STEP 4
Place loop on a foil, using a small brush, alternate applying FORMULA B and FORMULA C onto the loops of hair only. If there are two loops per sub-section, use one of each formula per loop section. Process accordingly, rinse thoroughly and apply BOND Ultim8 Step 2 sealer for 10 minutes. Rinse thoroughly, cleanse and condition with Total Results Color Obsessed Shampoo and Conditioner.
