Runway Report: Graphic Sophistication at SUNO

The ponytail is an ultimate hair staple: From the buoyancy of a high-pony to the quiet sophistication of tail tied low at the nape—as far as looks go, it’s a definitive classic go-to. Which begs the question: When is the last time you saw the ponytail truly innovated—truly reworked into something new? At SUNO, a silk ribbon gives the tried, tested and beloved pony an innovative edge. Graphic sophistication inspires the new look, fitting perfectly into the SUNO brand of print- and pattern-heavy wares. To build the foundation for the ponytail, Kérastase Paris Hair Lead Odile Gilbert preps and washes hair with Kérastase Paris Nutritive Bain Statin 1 and Nutritive Lait Vital, and then works L’Incroyable Blowdry Heat Lotion (launching in May) throughout, with Crème de la Crème only at the ends. Next, she creates a center part and blows out the lengths. Once dry, Gilbert infuses the roots (only if greasy) with Powder Bluff  or shoots on V.I.P to create extra volume. She then gently pulls hair back, securing the ponytail with an elastic. And now for the fun part: “Cross a silk velvet ribbon, like a corset, on three-quarters of the ponytail. Pull out pieces on the side for a little imperfection,” Gilbert advises. She then sprays hair all over using Laque Dentelle. “Its kind of a pure style,” she continues, “and voilà!”

The makeup inspiration for the SUNO collection is equally interesting, with girls likened to “aristocratic nomads.” NARS Makeup Lead James Boehmer explains, “We wanted to create a wind-burned effect on the skin.” To achieve a bit of chap, he applies NARSskin Aqua Gel Luminous Oil-Free Moisturizer, Stick Concealer and Soft Velvet Loose Powder on the face. “It’s anti-highlighting,” he explains. The same matte opaqueness applies to lips with a sheer coating of Unspeakable Velvet Lip Glide (new for Fall 2016), which is used “at about 20 percent” to recreate the “color of a chapped lip”—though not the flaking texture! Leslie Audacious Lipstick goes on cheeks and Oural Brow Gel is swept on eyebrows to keep a brushed-up shape intact. The natural darkness of each girl’s under-eye is left so that “every girl has a tiny bit of depth,” Boehmer explains. “I don’t want them to look too bright around the eyes.”

The graphic element of the SUNO collection also influences the nails. “There’s such a broad expanse of fabrics, finishes and tones happening in this collection, we wanted to have a really good, strong statement that grounds the whole collection together,” explains Morgan Taylor Lacquer Lead Manicurist Danielle Candido. To achieve grounding, Candido paints squoval-shape nails with Morgan Taylor Lacquer in Latte Please, a warm mocha tone that’s shaping up to be the prevalent neutral nail choice on the runways this season.