Lady Spectralight
Hair: theEdge by Milady Metroluxe Edition
Salon: Milady
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Begin by sectioning the hair at the nape. Start at the back corners of the head and follow an arc 2 inches above the occipital bone.
Make a crest-shaped section along the parietal ridge on either side of the head and braid the ends to keep hair secure.
Section out the crown area and divide it in half.
Section out the fringe area using oblique partings to the apex.
Starting at the center of the nape, take a ½-inch wide vertical section. Introduce the shears 3 inches away from scalp and, while elevating the hair, walk the shears toward the perimeter length. Complete the entire horseshoe section in this manner.
Divide the nape area in half. Elevate the top half straight up and cut in separation with the points of the shears.
Working at the center of the crown, take a ½-inch wide vertical section.
Take a previously cut piece of hair from above the occipital bone as your guide and walk the shears up the crown area until you reach the apex.
Your end length at the apex should be approximately 8 inches.
Continue around the crown in the same manner until the area is complete.
This completes the back of the haircut.
In the fringe area make a small diagonal parting.
Visually assess the desired length and angle of the fringe.
The angle of the fringe needs to mirror the angle of the section.
Cut the fringe using graduation.
Bring all the sections to a stationary guide until the fringe is complete.
This will result in an asymmetrical line.
Using a stationary guide line from the apex to the left temple, hold the hair at 90 degrees and cut hair approximately 3 inches.
Using pivoting sections, bring the hair up and cut it to the guide, ending in a pie section approximately 2½ inches wide.
On the right side, take a triangular section from the temple to above the ear, leavingout the hairline.
Using the length at the apex as your guide, hold the hair out at 45 degrees and walk the shears toward the perimeter, maintaining perimeter length.
Starting at the center of the nape, twist the hair.
Keep the elevation as low as possible and cut it to the desired length using a razor to create a broken, serrated line.
Work from the center to the right front until the perimeter is complete. This completes the wet cut.
Blow dry the hair with a vent brush to prepare for the dry haircut.
On the right side, cut a sharp, disconnected line from the middle of the ear to just below the cheekbone.
Be sure to take an ultra-thin section to achieve maximum precision.
On the left side, cut a disconnected section from the bottom of the ear to the cheekbone.
This section should be curved.
Finish the haircut by lightly texturizing the crown.
Take a fast triangular section just above the left side of the crest line behind the ear.
The section should be approximately 1½ inches in width.
Apply a level 4 chocolate brown from roots to ends.
Place the colored section in foil.
Take a triangular section from the nape of the neck.
Apply a level 4 chocolate brown from the roots to ends and wrap in foil.
Take a similar size section on the right side just under the crest line.
This section should be slightly lower than the left side to create asymmetry.
Apply a level 4 chocolate brown from the roots to ends and wrap in foil.
The back section of the head is complete.
Zigzag through the front hairline from ear to ear. Include the fringe area, which should be approximately 1–1¾ inches wide.
Apply a level 4 chocolate brown from the roots to ends and wrap in foil.
Take a fast triangular section 1¼ inches wide above the left ear. Repeat on the right side, going slightly lower for asymmetry. Apply a level 4 chocolate brown on both sections and wrap in foil.
Take a diagonal section at the back of the head and weave two to three wide slices (depending on size of head). Take care to weave different widths each time.
Apply a high lift tint, level 12 natural, mixed with 40 volume peroxide. Alternate level 12 and level 4 chocolate brown. The ratio of application should be two dark sections to one blonde section.
Continue applying tint up to the crown area. Move to just behind the fringe area, alternating two caramel and two chocolate brown sections, working toward the crown.
When you complete the crown area, move directly above the fringe area and repeat the slice combinations from Step 9. Work up toward the crown area. If desired, apply a third complementary color between levels 6 and 8 to the hair in between the foils throughout the head.
Blow dry by wrapping the hair around the head in an omnidirectional manner using a vent brush. This controls the hair without giving excess volume at the roots.
Finish by lightly going over the ends with a flat iron, using a brush for control.
FINISHED LOOK:
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