It’s the early 1900s, and the bourgeoisie are fleeing Russia - poets, artists, dancers — all in search of creative freedom. This is the romantic world fashion icon Diane von Furstenberg envisions when conceiving her aptly named “Bohemian Wrapsody” Fall 2014 collection. Among these refugees, there is a ballerina. “A free spirit floating toward the intersection of everything, she is a glamorous vagabond on the run with her dreams and colors!” says von Furstenberg.
As such, the vagabond’s hair is wound up in a dancer’s bun. “But because she’s on the move, it must convey the chic nonchalance of a ballerina in rehearsal, rather than a slicked performance updo,” explains BioSilk lead stylist Orlando Pita. He first preps strands with one of two serums: BioSilk Silk Therapy to rehydrate dry locks, or Dry Clean Shampoo for infusing volume into fine follicles. All recipes now call for the same blowout, followed by more serum. “This formula really softens hair, so loose pieces float behind the model when she walks the runway,” says Pita. He pulls hair back, making sure to leave it a bit fluffy, then spritzes Firm Hold Finishing Spray on a backcomb brush. Holding the brush vertically instead of horizontally, Pita rakes lines through each mane, to make it appear finger-combed. After tresses are secured with an elastic band, he creates loose loops, slightly opening each coil before pinning all into a single bun. “Diane wanted something that looked easy — but you can always make it special, even if does seem simple,” Pita notes. Shine On spray adds a final dash of lightweight gloss.
Makeup requires the same balance between beauty and minimalism. “Our elegant ballerina may be on her way to Paris, but she’s still a fugitive,” jokes MAC artist James Kaliardos. “She shouldn’t look all Martha Graham-ed out.” He starts by using MAC Pro Conceal and Color Palette to play with natural highlights and lowlights. Light contouring is done under chins and across cheekbones; darker shading occurs near noses and around temples. “This technique is a bit like breaking down a theater look and making it wearable,” muses the cosmetics pro. Flirt and Tease blush saturates cheeks in soft pink warmth, but it’s eyes that receive top billing. Trend Palettes in Grey Matter and Dusty Mauve (available this fall) are blended together and swept above upper lash lines for a lifting effect. “The taupe hue is really universal and looks great on every skin tone,” says Kaliardos. He lines inside lids with Technakohl in Nude, then applies Haute and Nasty mascara only to top, uncurled lashes. The pièce de résistance comes courtesy of Gloss Cream Brilliance, glazed over lids for brilliant luster. “It’s not great to have a lip gloss work double duty on eyes, so I especially love this handy product because it’s formulated specifically for eye use,” says Kaliardos.
Nails evoke the memory of pretty pink tutus. Michelle Saunders for essie first applies a lick of "First Base" base coat to digits filed to an active length and shape. Two layers follow, of either pale rose "Mademoiselle" lacquer for fair skin tones, or dusty coral "Sugar Daddy" on deeper-hued dermis. "Good To Go" top coat seals manis. “When viewed together, all hands will boast an identical classic buff shine,” promises Saunders.
—Francesca Moisin
[Images courtesy of BioSilk]
